Restaurants in Shikoku
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Tokugetsurō
Open since 1870, this is the place to come to if you have a fat wallet and want to try immaculately presented Tosa-ryōri (local cuisine). Unfortunately, this can be a difficult place to visit if you don't read Japanese as the kanji-heavy menu changes daily, though you can always choose which setto-cossu (set course) you'd like based on the price. It's in a traditional building directly across from the Dentetsu Taminaru-biru Mae tram stop.
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Dōgo Bakushukan
The Japanese love their mass produced lagers, though beer drinkers with a more discerning palette know that you can't beat Dōgo Bakushukan's award-winning korushu (kolsch; around ¥450). Alternate sips of sweet nectar with slivers of raw fish from the house sashimi setto (sashimi set) and you've got yourself a meal. Directly across from Dōgo Onsen, this spot is easily recognisable by the huge plastic beer mug outside.
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Kushihide Tori-ryōri-honten
Located down a side street adjacent to the Ōkaidō Arcade (look for the chicken on the sign) is this speciality restaurant where you can feast on fresh and tasty free-range Ehime chicken dishes. Although there aren't any plastic models, the speciality of the house is the tori sashimi (raw chicken). Check your hesitations at the door and dig in - it's delicious!
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Hakobe
This is one of the few remaining cook-it-yourself okinomiyaki joints in Kōchi (¥630) serving cheap and cheerful Japanese pancakes, with good English spoken by the waiters. The 'mix' of ika (squid) and ebi and tori (chicken) is heavenly. Other alternatives include buta (pork) and yasai (vegetables). It's slap bang in the heart of the arcade.
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Goshiki Sōmen Morikawa
Next to the central post office is this elegant Matsuyama institution, which specialises in goshiki sōmen (thin noodles in five different colours). You'll recognise it by the piles of colourful noodles in the window waiting to be snapped up and taken home as souvenirs. Set meals are around ¥1500; there is a picture menu.
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Hirome Ichiba
Some hundred or so mini restaurants specialising in everything from gomoku rāmen (seafood noodles) to tacoyaki (octopus balls); this is the hub of Kōchi's cheap eats scene. On weekends, it positively heaves with young people drinking hard and happy. It's at the end of the main arcade, just before the castle.
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YRG Café
This super cute coffee shop down by the train tracks is run by super talented, English-speaking Takao. 'Yellow, Red, Green' sells hip jewellery and postcards and mix CDs, not to mention whopping cups of chai latte (¥400) and nutritious, comforting meals that change weekly.
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Wine
The pick of the all-you-can-drink joints in Tokushima is this three-floor number that offers the usual spread of well-presented Japanese staples in generous proportions. For ¥3500 you will get seven courses, including sashimi and delicious salads. Get there early on weekends.
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Wabisuke
This restaurant, washed by the gentle sounds of running water, is an elegant spot to try the local tai (sea bream) specialities, available here as a tai-meshi go-zen (sea bream set course; ¥1880). There is a picture menu, and the young staff speak some English.
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Uofuku
Uofuku is a fabulous curb-side izakaya (pub-eatery) on a quiet backstreet behind the arcade. Fish is the order of the day, handpicked from the tank by the door. The menu is a mess of kanji; try the katsuo tataki (around ¥1200) or ask for osusume (a recommendation). This is a good place for adventurous eaters to try shutō – the pickled and fermented innards of the bonito fish (¥450), which locals regard as a delicacy.
reviewed
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Tsurumaru
Sit at the counter and watch the noodles being pounded by hand in this popular spot, which is busy with the bar-hopping crowd until late into the night. The delicious karē udon (curry udon) is the most popular choice here. Look for the curtain over the door with a picture of a crane on it.
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Tori-kō
This atmospheric spot is thick with the smell of delicious local chicken grilling on coals. Orders like tsukune (chicken meat balls) and tebasaki (chicken wings) are ¥300 for two sticks; the Awa-odori Sanmai course (a selection of different cuts of the local gourmet chicken) is ¥3000. Look for the wooden menu boards covering the walls outside.
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Tokiwa Saryō
An old Japanese inn with a pond and excellent sashimi sets. It's off the Tokiwa arcade from Ferry Dōri, take the second left; it's the building on the right with the big white lantern.
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Saffron
The huge Japanese omelettes (fried and folded egg filled with spiced rice and covered in sweet, brown sauce) at this very cosy lunch spot make delicious hangover food. Linger for a scoop of homemade ice cream and hang out with the friendly owner. It's around the corner from Sakura-sō guesthouse, with an English sign.
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Ohana Cafe
This Hawaiian burger joint in the heart of Matsuyama is a happening little business. The four-seater lunch counter and one comfy booth are permanently packed during happy lunch hours, and the tiny, many varied burgers are sweet and delicious. The fruity enchiladas are pretty good too. It's off Okaido Arcade, past Café Bleu and on the right.
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Ofukuro
This fabulous washofu (local eating house) in the heart of the entertainment district offers a well-priced and hearty dining experience. A number of delicious, preprepared vegetarian and fish dishes sit on the counter. The complimentary salad and miso soup make minimeals. It's next door to a popular yakitori restaurant, east of Minami-shinmachi.
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Mother Restaurant
Near the turn-off to Yōkaichi St is this friendly Japanese diner that prepares a tasty two-choice lunch menu and good, strong coffee.
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Masala
Sometimes all you need is a good, authentic curry. The Indian staff serve veggie curries and a range of enormous, piping hot naan breads. This branch of the small Shikoku-based chain is on the 5th floor of the Clement Plaza.
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Kompira Udon
Just short of the first set of steps leading up Kompira-san, this is one of dozens of Sanuki udon joints in Kotohira. Look for the giant udon bowl outside.
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Kisuke
Named after an anime character who always arrives in the nick of time, Kisuke has built a reputation for imaginative seafood dishes over the past 16 years. Turning left into a side street off the north end of Ryōgoku Honchō – it's on the first corner. The exterior is a striking, modern design of wood and steel.
reviewed
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King's Yawd
Dreadlocked Kalli and his laid-back staff serve up genuine Caribbean flavour in the heart of Takamatsu. Think platters of jerk chicken (¥800), fiery fish curries (¥900) and tropical fruit desserts. The generous cocktails blend perfectly with the Rastafarian vibes emanating from the sound system and the red, yellow and green decor. The legendary weekend parties are popular with both locals and expats.
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Kanaizumi
A self-service, self-explanatory noodle joint that is ideal for famished victims of culture shock. You can choose between shō (small), chū (medium) or dai (large) helpings of kake udon (udon in broth) or zaru udon (cold udon, with a dipping sauce), and then help yourself to a wide variety of toppings. It's located by the Takamatsu City Museum of Art.
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Hozumi-tei
This formal izakaya has been serving up local food for over 70 years. The menu is all in Japanese, but if you say the words 'Kyōdo ryōri' (郷土料理) – meaning 'local cuisine' – the friendly owner should unlock his secrets. A course of the local tai-meishi is ¥2100.
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Gosankeshi
Named after the auspicious carp, this is Kōchi's hottest spot for high quality, affordable seafood. Sweet, pan-fried ebi (shrimp) and delectable tai (snapper) dishes are whipped up on demand by young, affable chefs. It's in the heart of the party district and makes an ideal predrinking feast.
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Futaba
Excellent noodles and nabe (Japanese hotpot) for your post-onsen replenishment.
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