Asakusa & Sumida River
This branch of the famous Kyoto-based pickle shop provides tastings of its traditional preserves done in a variety of ways, including with salt, vinegar…
Must-see restaurants in Japan
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
The karashibi (カラシビ) spicy miso-rāmen here has a cult following. Choose your level of kara (spice) and shibi (a strange mouth-numbing sensation created by…
Kyūshū
In a nation with lots of sea coast but precious little recreational beachfront, this new spot along the promenade facing Aoshima Island is a breath of…
Nara
A good place to sample local Nara specialities like kakinoha-zushi (pressed sushi wrapped in persimmon leaf – don't eat the leaf!) and chagayu (rice…
Ginza & Tsukiji
In the evenings Maru offers a contemporary take on kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) fine dining. The chefs are young and inventive and the appealing space…
Hokkaidō
This rambling collection of tiny restaurants runs the length of an alley between 4-jō-dōri and 5-jō-dōri, about a 10-minute walk north of the train…
Tokyo
Yanagi-kōji is a classic nomiyagai (eating and drinking strip) and this one is particularly beloved for its nostalgic (read: crumbling) atmosphere. It's a…
Takayama
Word has spread that this Japanese couple are living their dream and welcoming visitors from around the world, so you might have to wait for a table to…
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo
Wedged inside the fashion-forward Lumine Est department store (itself inside the frenetic Shinjuku Station), Berg stands still. The cramped, cult-status…
Asakusa & Sumida River
Centuries ago, when Fukagawa was basically a tidal flat, hungry locals would gather clams at the shore, resulting in the neighbourhood's signature dish:…
Western Honshū
Fresh seafood and local beef sumibiyaki (charcoal grilled) are the specialities in this airy restaurant. It does shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef or pork…
Downtown Kyoto
Across from Takashimaya department store, this long-standing Kyoto restaurant serves approachable kaiseki in a variety of rooms, both private and common…
Kōbe
The most famous of Kōbe's bakeries, Isuzu is particularly famous for its crisp, fluffy 'curry pan' (¥160; カレーパン ), a deep-fried doughnut stuffed with beef…
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
This pocket of Kanda has several long-running restaurants in vintage wooden buildings. Isegen, in business since the 1830s, occupies a handsome one from…
Gyoza Chao Chao Sanjo-Kiyamachi
Downtown Kyoto
In the heart of Kyoto's bar scene, it's no wonder Chao Chao draws long queues for its crispy gyōza (dumplings) – great as a pre-drink dinner, even better…
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
Ensconce yourself in your hori-kotatsu (low table with hollowed-out space in the floor for your legs) or on a log bench, and drape a napkin made of kimono…
Downtown Kyoto
This is one of the best reasonably priced sushi restaurants in Kyoto. It’s a classic: long counter, bellowing sushi chefs and great fresh fish. The lunch…
Ebisu, Meguro & Around
Fried chicken – which in Japan is lightly coated in a very fine starch – is having a moment and Rangmang Shokudō has a lot to do with that. Each order…
Downtown Kyoto
You will be amazed by the variety of dishes that can be created with tofu at this specialist tofu restaurant. It’s got traditional Japanese decor and in…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
The best noodles in town are found in this 250-year-old Edo-era wooden schoolhouse. The house speciality is buke-soba served with takenoko (bamboo shoots)…
Kansai
This local institution specialises in gyū-don (sliced beef on rice). Early-morning shrine visitors can pick up menchi katsu (croquettes stuffed with…
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
In studenty Jimbōchō, Japanese curry cafes are everywhere and fiercely competitive. Ethiopia is a seasoned champ, offering jumbo serves and curries packed…
Downtown Kyoto
Above the mumokuteki shop in the middle of the downtown area, this popular cafe is a lifesaver for many Kyoto vegetarians. The food is tasty, varied and…
Downtown Kyoto
If you’ve never tried a kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant), don’t miss this place – most dishes are a mere ¥146. Not the best sushi in the…
Kansai
This is a good place to sample kawadoko 'above-river' dining on platforms. A friendly crew of ladies run the show and the food is quite good; they are…
Tokyo
Anago (seafaring eel) has long been considered a super-food, rich in vitamins A and E (and fortunately, not endangered like its freshwater cousin unagi)…
Ginza & Tsukiji
Monjayaki is a Tokyo speciality, a batter, veg, seafood and meat fry-up with a loose, scrambled-egg-like texture. This place dating back to 1950 is said…
Fugu-dashi Ushio Hachidai Keisuke
Ginza & Tsukiji
In the stylish basement-restaurant floor of Tōkyū Plaza Ginza, this standard-looking ramen stall has the usual vending machine for paying at the entrance…
Iwate Prefecture
Jaja-men (じゃじゃめん; noodle with miso and minced meat) joints are all over town, but this hole-in-the wall is still the leader. Ordering is a breeze: just…
Kansai
Located above a fish market, this casual restaurant is a popular local spot for kaisen-don (raw seafood on rice; ¥1400 to ¥1950), but there are also…
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
The original Mosuke, a street vendor, began making dango (soft rice-flour balls) in 1898, back when the fish market was in Nihombashi. Now on its third…
Kyūshū
This cosy, family-style shop is credited as the inventor, in 1966, of the retasu maki (lettuce roll) sushi, in which crunchy lettuce substitutes for nori …
Kyūshū
Togakushi has no English menu, but any difficulties this may present are worth it for the delicate, thin kama-age udon (barrel-boiled wheat noodles; ¥650)…
Kagoshima
Kuro Satsuma-dori (black Satsuma chicken) is the name of the bird served here, and also what it looks like after being grilled sumibi-yaki-style over open…
Osaka
Head downstairs to this spirited, friendly izakaya (pub eatery) for standards such as skewered meats, seafood, veggies fresh off the grill and giant…
Southern Higashiyama
If you need a quick meal while in the main Southern Higashiyama sightseeing district, this simple noodle and rice restaurant is a good bet. It’s within…
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa
The latest Tokyo outpost from boundary pusher Mensho has two appealing options: really good vegan tantanmen (Sichuan-style spicy noodles), the broth…
Ueno & Yanesen
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the Edo period and continues to serve its signature dishes with tofu made fresh every morning using water from the shop’s…
Ueno & Yanesen
Part of the gallery and event space Hagiso, run by students from Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), this is a good all-rounder for meals, drinks and…
Southern Higashiyama
This Gion institution is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best-known okashi-ya (sweet shops). It sells a variety of traditional sweets and has a lovely tearoom…
