Restaurants in Japan
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Ten-Ten Tsune-Tsune Kaitenbō
There is no shortage of great Chinese restaurants in ‘Little Hong Kong’, though we’ve never seen anything quite like this novelty dim sum spot. Drawing inspiration from kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurants, Ten-Ten Tsune-Tsune Kaitenbō (try saying that with your mouth full!) offers conveyor-belt dim sum feasts to hungry shoppers in need of a dumpling-fuelled boost. Although there is a limited English menu available, it is not hard to simply grab what looks good!
reviewed
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Hassei
The walls of this popular okonomiyaki joint are covered with the signatures of celebrity visitors. Unless you're a sumō wrestler, you'll probably find a half-order more than enough to be getting on with at lunchtime. Look for the wooden sign next to the doorway.
reviewed
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Hayashi
Ensconce yourself in your hori-kotatsu or on a log bench, drape a napkin made of kimono fabric over your lap, and pretend you’re somewhere in the Japan Alps. Kindly staff grill yakitori over irori (hearths) set into your table and serve it on rustic pottery while you swig shōchū from Kyūshū. It’s a great place to observe local salarymen and the occasional actor from the theatre down the street. It’s upstairs from Lotus Palace.
reviewed
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Mon
This Kōbe institution serves a peculiar Japanese speciality known as yōshoku: Japanese versions of Western food like steaks and pork cutlets. It's pretty much what the Japanese imagined Westerners ate morning, noon and night when they first started showing up in those black ships. If you're in the mood for something heavier than noodles and rice, this might satisfy. The sign out front has a hilarious picture of two 'barbarians' who look like they could really go for a nice steak.
reviewed
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Mitsutaya
At this atmospheric former bean-paste mill, dating from 1869, the speciality is eight varieties of dengaku; these are bamboo skewers with deep-fried tofu and vegetables such as taro basted in sweet miso paste and baked over charcoal. Herring (nishin) is also superb. Facing west from the main post office, walk down Nanokomachi-dōri, then take the second left; it's just near the intersection with Nanokomachi-dōri. No English, but a picture menu makes ordering easy.
reviewed
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Senmonten
This place serves one thing only: crisp fried gyōza, which come in lots of 10 and are washed down with beer or Chinese raoshu (rice wine). If you can break the record for the most gyōza eaten in one sitting, your meal will be free and you’ll receive – guess what? – more gyōza to take home. The last time we were here, the men’s record was around 150 gyōza. Look for the red-and-white sign and the glass door.
reviewed
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Kikō
Korean home cooking, a few doors downhill from Hippari Dako.
reviewed
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Les Deux Bleue
As you gaze out over Tokyo Bay on a sunny day or a sparkly night, this glassed-in cafe at the far corner of the LaLaPort shopping centre might become the favourite place of you and your loved one – assuming your loved one has a waggly tail and cold nose. While humans can fill up on burgers, pizzas and pastas, there’s an entire menu for the four-legged ones, from organic chicken liver to doggy birthday cake. After your meal, you can both burn off the calories at the fenced-in dog run.
reviewed
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Sandaya Honten
If the New York Grill is glitzy and Western, Sandaya delivers wagyū (Japanese beef) in a humbler Japanese style, though you still get both the steak and the sizzle. Slices of beef arrive on a teppan (hot steel plate) piled high with onions and other veggies that cook while your steak does. Eat it with chopsticks while a live koto or piano player entertains. Meals come with soup, salad, rice, dessert and coffee. Our only disappointment: the limited wine selection.
reviewed
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Tōsuirō
We really like this tofu specialist. It’s got great traditional Japanese décor and in summer you can sit on the yuka (dining platform) outside with a view of the Kamo-gawa. You will most probably be amazed by the incredible variety of dishes that can be created with tofu. At lunch, the machiya-zen (tofu set; ¥2100) is highly recommended. At dinner, we suggest the Higashiyama tofu set (¥3675). Tōsuirō is at the end of an alley on the north side.
reviewed
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Okinawa
If you’ve never been to the far-flung tropical islands of Okinawa, then this speciality izakaya will have you racing to the travel agent. Start things off with a cold Orion beer or a potent glass of awamori (Okinawan-style shōchū ), and then jump right into Okinawan staples such as gōya chanpū (sautéed bitter melon and egg), mimiga (pig ears), sōki-soba (Okinawan-style soba ) and rafutē (stewed pork belly with brown sugar).
reviewed
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Le Bouchon
This reliable French place serves tasty lunch and dinner sets and has a pleasant, casual atmosphere. The kitchen does great work with fish, salads and desserts, and the pommes frites (French fries) are excellent. The owner speaks English, French and Japanese and will make you feel right at home. The set dinner (appetiser, main and dessert) is great value. Lunch sets cost less than ¥1000. It’s near the corner; look for the blackboard displaying the day’s specials.
reviewed
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Aji-no-Ichiba
Rishiri-tō is a great place for fresh seafood of all kinds, but uni (sea urchin) is mouthwatering. People have been known to travel all the way from Tokyo simply to eat it here. The stall Aji-no-Ichiba serves seafood straight from the local fishing boats to your mouth, sometimes with no cooking in between. Look for a small, nondescript building next to a warehouse with an uni tank and Coca-Cola vending machine; exit to the right from the Oshidomari ferry terminal.
reviewed
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Merry Island Café
This popular lunch/dinner restaurant strives to create the atmosphere of a tropical resort. The menu is mukokuseki (without nationality) and most of what is on offer is pretty tasty. It does a good risotto and occasionally has a nice piece of Japanese steak. In warm weather the front doors are opened and the place takes on the air of a sidewalk cafe.
reviewed
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Yabaton
Not everything in Ginza has to be chic and sleek. Yabaton sells miso-katsu, a very workmanlike take on tonkatsu that’s slathered in miso sauce. Waraji-tonkatsu is a big-as-your-head flattened cutlet, or try kani-korokke (crab croquettes). Yabaton-salada (boiled pork with miso sesame sauce over vegetables) is kinda sorta good for you. Look for the pig wearing a sumō wrestler’s apron, one block west of Shōwa-dōri.
reviewed
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Ben’s Cafe
Local Waseda students and expats come to Ben’s to quell cravings for quiche, cappuccino or Belgian beer – or just to chill. There’s no smoking indoors, and the patio out front is a good place to sip wine and watch life amble by on warm evenings. Ben’s also hosts poetry readings and exhibitions by local artists, and it has wi-fi access. Head uphill to the left of Big Box, turn left at the corner where you see New Yorkers Café and right at the next corner.
reviewed
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Yak & Yeti
This tiny joint serves more than just the dal bhaat (rice and lentil curry) that most people associate with Nepalese cuisine. In fact, the fare (good curries and tasty nan bread) is probably closer to Indian. There is counter seating, but we like to sit on the comfortable cushions here. English menus are available. The staff is pretty chuffed about being listed in our guides and has posted a picture of an old edition out the front – should be no trouble finding it.
reviewed
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Yoshida-ya
This quaint and friendly little teishoku-ya (set-meal restaurant) is the perfect place to grab a simple lunch while in Arashiyama. All the standard teishoku favourites are on offer, including things like oyako-donburi for ¥850. You can also cool off here with a refreshing uji kintoki (¥650). It's the first place south of the station and it's got a rustic front.
reviewed
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Ushio
Tachikui (stand-and-eat) noodles are a longstanding (forgive the pun) Tokyo tradition, but tachikui sushi…well, that’s new. So is the way you order. Take a little plastic coin, each with the name of the fish in Japanese and English, from a rack on the counter, plunk it onto a small plate in front of you, and the itamae makes it. Genius. The atmosphere: utilitarian and immaculate. It’s in the corridor as you exit Shinagawa Station.
reviewed
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Ōshima Endomae-Dokoro
The 30th floor of the Hotel Grand Pacific Le Meridien affords broad views of the cranes, lifts and skyscrapers on the opposite shore. How charming then at such a soaring height that this little spot, with its tiny counter and virtuosic sushi chefs, makes you feel like a bird in a very warm nest. If you're travelling with a loved one, dining on sushi of this quality at such lofty heights is a romantic and altogether memorable experience, especially if the weather is cooperating.
reviewed
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Saraca Nishijin
This is one of Kyoto’s most interesting cafés – it’s built inside an old sentō (public bathhouse) and the original tiles have been preserved. Light meals and coffee (¥400) are the staples here. The honjitsu Nishijin (daily Nishijin lunch; ¥890) plate is decent value. Service can be slow and scattered but the interesting ambience makes it worth a look. It’s near Funaoka Onsen and is easy to spot.
reviewed
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Ume-No-Hana
This traditional, elegant restaurant is rightfully renowned for their tōfu-ryori, kaiseki (elegant, multi-course Japanese meals) meals that showcase tofu and yuba (tofu 'skin') in beautifully presented small courses. Both niku-nashi (vegetarian) and meat-inclusive sets are available, but ordering will be problematic unless you have a Japanese speaker make the reservation for you and help you decide the best set for you and your party.
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Munch
Japanese reggae is the soundtrack at this youthful contemporary izakaya. Order small plates like agedashi-dofu (fried tofu), basashi (horsemeat sashimi) or niku-jaga (meat and potatoes), washed down with ichigo (strawberry) or mikan (mandarin orange) sake. Or say how much you want to spend and let the chef surprise you. From the Zenkōji exit of the station, turn right through the alley and just past the car park.
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Tsukiji Tama Sushi
Settle yourself near the windows and sip from a huge, earthy cup of green tea while you wait for your sushi, which will come immaculately presented and perfectly fresh. The menu also includes set meals and udon if you prefer; either way, this is a pleasant corner from which to take in good Japanese food and bay views. Dinner is tabe-hōdai (all you can eat) for 90 minutes, though we’re guessing they probably take a loss on some diners from overseas.
reviewed
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Ippūdō
Nationally famous, this rāmen shop specialises in tonkotsu (pork broth) noodles. While the akamaru rāmen (rich pork broth with red seasoning oil) is tailored towards the Tokyo palate, the shiromaru (milder, 'white' pork broth) is pure Kyūshū (grate fresh garlic over it for authenticity). You'll have to queue at peak periods and, as a courtesy, should take no more than 20 minutes to eat, but it's well worth it.
reviewed