Must-see restaurants in Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

  • Kadare Yokochō

    Aomori Prefecture

    In the evening university students flock to this nondescript office building housing eight tiny restaurants, most doubling as bars. It's a lively local…

  • Shinsen Ichiba

    Aomori Prefecture

    Cut out the middle man and head straight for the famed Aomori seafood market, where piles of fresh catch – as well as apples, pickled vegetables and a…

  • Ohisamaya

    Sendai

    Vegetable curries, macrobiotic tofu and fresh, colourful salads are the highlights of this delightful, minimalist cafe, which rotates its menu regularly…

  • Kosendō

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    The best noodles in town are found in this 250-year-old Edo-era wooden schoolhouse. The house speciality is buke-soba served with takenoko (bamboo shoots)…

  • Pairon Honten

    Iwate Prefecture

    Jaja-men (じゃじゃめん; noodle with miso and minced meat) joints are all over town, but this hole-in-the wall is still the leader. Ordering is a breeze: just…

  • Shōkadō

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    On the 2nd floor, with huge windows overlooking the bay, this light-filled, minimalist cafe specialises in castella, a moist, sponge-like cake originally…

  • Pia Bandai

    Niigata Prefecture

    Conveniently located on the way to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, this sprawling complex includes markets and eateries – so you can gawk at the bounty of…

  • Mitsutaya

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    The versatile soybean is pounded and skewered to perfection at this former bean-paste mill dating from 1834. The speciality here is dengaku – bamboo…

  • Osanai

    Aomori Prefecture

    In a town that knows how to handle a bivalve, Osanai has a stellar reputation among locals for its simple and cheap hotate (scallops). The menu includes…

  • Sun Sun Shopping Village

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Atop reclaimed land near where the old centre of Minami-Sanriku stood, this new shopping village opened in 2017 to much fanfare. It represents the…

  • Karē Kōbō Chalten

    Iwate Prefecture

    Serving the best curry we tried in the whole of northern Japan, this small, charming restaurant makes nothing except creamy plates of curry. The wonderful…

  • Nagaya Sakaba

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Rebuilt after a 2017 fire, Nagaya Sakaba is easy to spot due to the massive Namahage demons above the entrance. Sake flows freely once you've negotiated…

  • Azumaya Honten

    Iwate Prefecture

    Customers line up and tour buses roll in for this hugely popular wanko-soba restaurant. As per tradition, the waiter will refill your tiny bowl with soba…

  • Kanbun Gonendō

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    This bright, well-regarded shop specialises in inaniwa udon, a thin chewy wheat noodle that originated in Akita Prefecture in the 1600s. Locals seek out…

  • Common-ship Hashidori

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Constructed haphazardly from caravans, pine beams, fake turf and fairy lights, this pop-up community dining and gathering space is emblematic of…

  • Robata

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    The best Mongolian barbecue or jingisukan restaurant in Zaō (there are many) is a sharp operation where diners do the grunt work on plates of raw lamb and…

  • Aji Tasuke

    Sendai

    In a city of fans of charcoal-grilled cow's tongue, this little gyūtan has been steadily among the top few purveyors for some time now. Perch at the…

  • Soba Goro

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    The line of locals out the door at lunchtime is testament to the popularity of this small restaurant, tucked inside a grocery store opposite the Tazawa-ko…

  • Aizawa Bakery

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Tucked away on a residential street a few blocks back from the main thoroughfare, this tiny, one-room bakery does a seriously good sourdough, as well as…

  • Kanzan-tei

    Iwate Prefecture

    On top of the hill within the Chūson-ji complex, this glass-walled restaurant has lovely views of the surrounding countryside and is the perfect place to…

  • Shimafumi

    Niigata Prefecture

    On a bend in the road at the southern tip of Mano Bay, this unexpectedly excellent bakery-cafe serves a wide variety of baked goods as well as coffee,…

  • Sobadokoro Shōjiya

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Delicious chewy udon and signature soba bowls (hot or cold) are served with simple elegance at this friendly spot. The accompanying tempura and miso are…

  • Rikyu Ichibancho Yanagimachi

    Sendai

    The best gyūtan (charcoal-grilled cow's tongue) place in town is this tiny hole-in-the-wall filled with locals. It's cheap, fresh and there is an English…

  • Orae

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Delicious, organic lakeside cafe known for its starring role in a Korean film. Salads, soups and locally made Kohan No Mori beer make for a very…

  • Santarō

    Sendai

    Spectacular evening kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) courses and crunch-for-lunch tempura are served in this elegant traditional building in the heart of…

  • Sakata Kaisen Ichiba

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    A must-visit for seafood lovers. You can eat at a variety of places at this indoor seafood market or grab some mouth-watering sushi and picnic goodies.

  • Kaikyōsō

    Aomori Prefecture

    The bright-green building housing Kaikyōsō looks more like a hardware store than a purveyor of fine raw fish, but don't be fooled: you're in the exact…

  • Itō-ke

    Iwate Prefecture

    Among the soba varieties served here, try hitsuko soba (ひつこそば), eaten with chicken, mushrooms, onion and raw egg. Otherwise go for hittsumi (ひっつみ), hand…

  • Kachofugetsu

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    To the east of the centre, in a residential neighbourhood, this popular ramen joint does a roaring trade in steaming bowls of homemade noodles in a rich,…

  • Jūkei

    Aomori Prefecture

    Walking down Shinmachi-dōri from the station, turn left on Zeimusho-dōri (before the Alpha Hotel). Walk towards the water, and on your left you'll find…

  • Rairai-ken

    Aomori Prefecture

    On the southern side of Hirosaki-kōen, Rairai-ken is a lovely little Chinese restaurant in the temple district. There are lots of vegetarian options,…

  • Yamakazi

    Aomori Prefecture

    One of the fanciest establishments in Hirosaki, this elegant restaurant offers French-inspired banquets, many including the chef's famous 'miracle' cold…

  • Uohara

    Niigata Prefecture

    The speciality here is awabi (abalone), grilled as a steak (at market rate) or, more affordably, barbecued with a sweet soy-sauce marinade and served over…

  • Santori Chaya

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Perennial local favourites from land and sea such as kaisen-don (mixed sashimi on rice) and gyūtan (chargrilled cow's tongue) feature here, along with…

  • Takino

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    One of the most popular places to try the sublime wappa meshi (steamed fish or vegetables over rice, prepared in a container made from tree bark, which…

  • Cafe Pamplemousse

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    This peculiar concept cafe enjoys a lovely riverside locale and is run by a busy young team of foodies who specialise in desserts, fancy teas and organic…

  • Ringobako

    Aomori Prefecture

    This brightly lit basement restaurant stars musicians wielding shamisen (three-stringed instruments resembling a lute or a banjo) entertaining seafood…

  • Curry House Hōryū

    Aomori Prefecture

    Nearly 50 years of churning out sweet, creamy curries has led to mastery of spice and consistency at Curry House Hōryū. It's remarkably cheap and draws a…

  • Kikufuji

    Aomori Prefecture

    A true local restaurant offering a variety of set meals of hearty stews and delicate seafood concoctions. There's also an extensive list of Aomori sake,…

  • Kitanosuisan

    Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

    Come here to sample sake and local Yamagata specialities such as imo nabe (potato stew) and dongara (cod), as well as a variety of chargrilled seafood…