Restaurants in Central Honshū
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Chapala
Mexico is about as far from Japan as can be, but this little shop run by a Japanese enthusiast makes a fair stab at it. The taste and dainty portions of tacos, quesadillas and guac' and chips might not pass muster in California, Texas or Guadalajara, but the place is adorable and the owners earnest. Plus, you get to eat Mexican with chopsticks while swilling Coronas and margaritas.
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Robata Shōya
On a corner in the town centre is this classic, lively yakitori-ya (restaurant specialising in yakitori), with a large selection of grills, seasonal specials and a (sort of) English menu.
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Munch
Japanese reggae is the soundtrack at this youthful contemporary izakaya. Order small plates like agedashi-dofu (fried tofu), basashi (horsemeat sashimi) or niku-jaga (meat and potatoes), washed down with ichigo (strawberry) or mikan (mandarin orange) sake. Or say how much you want to spend and let the chef surprise you. From the Zenkōji exit of the station, turn right through the alley and just past the car park.
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Tarafuku
Ambitious, young gourmets have turned the izakaya (pub-eatery) concept on its head, installing a stainless-steel kitchen in what looks from the outside like a falling-down house. East-West fusion dishes might include airy potato croquettes in a fried tofu crust; tomato and eggplant au gratin; house-cured ham, or beef, in wine sauce; plus wine and cocktail lists. Tarafuku is located diagonally across from both Tōyoko Inns.
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Yamatake-Shōten
This is a workmanlike butcher shop with a restaurant upstairs, and is an excellent place to sample Hida-gyū. Here's the drill: choose your own cut (pay by weight, from ¥1380 per 100g), which is plated and brought to the table for you to cook on an inset charcoal grill. Vegetables and simple desserts are included. Sides like kimchi and gyū tataki (marinated raw beef) are also for sale. There's a ¥420 seating charge.
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Misen
Around the corner from Yabaton, Misen has little atmosphere and no English menu, but the Taiwan rāmen (egg noodles; ¥580) induces rapture – it's a spicy concoction of ground meat, chilli, garlic and green onion, served over noodles in a hearty clear broth. Other faves include gomoku yakisoba (stir-fried noodles; ¥630) and mabō-dōfu (tofu in spicy meat sauce; ¥580).
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Torigin Honten
For top kōchin, Torigin has been going strong for decades. Chicken is served in many forms, including kushiyaki (skewered), kara-age (deep-fried pieces), zōsui (mild rice hotpot) and sashimi (what you think it is). Individual dishes are a bit dainty for the price, but teishoku (set menus; from ¥3000) are more substantial. It's next door to BJ American Dining Bar.
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Yabaton
Throw caution to the wind at this spotless, workmanlike institution for miso-katsu that has been around since 1947. Waraji-tonkatsu is a cutlet flattened to as big as your head, or try kani-korokke (crab croquettes). Yabaton-salada (boiled pork with miso sesame sauce over vegetables) is kinda, sorta good for you. If all else fails, there's the delish teppan-tonkatsu (¥1350), which is a miso pork cutlet on a sizzling plate of cabbage. Look for the pig-in-an-apron logo.
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Atsuta Hōraiken
Honten Atsuta-jingū This hitsumabushi shop, in business since 1873, is revered with good reason. Expect long queues during the summer peak season for hitsumabushi, basted in a secret tare(sauce) and served atop rice in a covered lacquered bowl (¥2730); add green onion, wasabi and dashi (fish broth) to your taste. Other teishoku (set menus) include tempura and steak. There's another branch a few blocks away, near Atsuta-jingū. The main branch has more atmosphere but also more smokers; avoid on Saturdays.
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Kōtatsu
More sophisticated than your everyday okonomiyaki place, Kōtatsu has a dark atmosphere and an assortment of sake and shōchū, and will cook your okonomiyaki for you. Salads are also available. It's beneath Arroz Spanish restaurant; there's a bubble motif on the brown wall outside.
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Origin
This wonderful local izakaya a minute from the station has the usual kushiyaki (grilled, skewered dishes) and tofu steak, plus original dishes like sardines rolled in yuba (tofu skin), or big-as-a-beer-can grilled daikon in miso sauce. Or go for broke with Hida beef. Look for the bamboo poles out the front.
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Oden Miyuki Honten
For fish in another form (ground and pressed into cakes and served in broth), oden is very satisfying, especially on chilly nights. Some of the staff are English-speaking.
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Tofu Café Gorokutei
From the pancakes to the parfaits, just about everything here is made with Japan's favourite protein (although the 'tofu hamburger' also has a little ground chicken). It's in Patio Daimon, an open-air collection of small buildings built like kura, by the Daimon and Daimon Minami bus stops. Picture menu.
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Shizuka
Friendly, traditional izakaya serving favourites like oden and yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken). Some more challenging local specialities are on the English menu.
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Ramen Kameya
Nothing fancy here, just rāmen served in traditional Chinese style (chūka), with Shinshū miso or even kimchi. It's popular with the late-night after-drinking crowd, with all that entails. Look for the chalkboard on the wall across from the hotel carpark.
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Gohonjin Fujiya
Until recently, this was Nagano's most venerable hotel (since 1648 – look for 'Hotel Fujiya' on signage), but it quit the hotel business and has transformed itself into the city's most venerable Western restaurant. Try sweet potato gnocchi with mascarpone sauce or wa-gyū (Japanese beef) sirloin. The imposing 1923 building mixes Japanese and art deco motifs.
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Jiyūken
By Higashi Chaya-gai, this simple but welcoming spot has been serving yō-shoku (Japanese takes on Western cuisine; eg beef stew, grilled chicken, omelettes) since 1909. The teishoku is a steal at ¥920. There are plastic models in the window. Look for the stone front.
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Nomugi
In Nakamachi, this is one of central Japan's finest soba shops. Its owner used to run a French restaurant in Tokyo before returning to his home town. There's one dish: zaru-soba in a wicker basket; plus kake-soba (¥1300), which is served during the colder months.
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Bistro Yuiga
There's a gentle jazz soundtrack to accompany elegantly prepared French delicacies in this one-time private home. Set menus include treats like raw ham and - because this is Kanazawa - seafood. It's a short walk off the main street from Katamachi, down the street opposite Kōtatsu.
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Ebisu-Honten
This Sanmachi shop has been making teuchi (handmade) soba since 1898. The menu explains the soba-making process. Go for zaru (cold) soba for the real flavour of the buckwheat, or try curry or miso-nikomi (in miso broth) style. It's on a side street and has a sign with a little roof on it.
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Nanaya Colonial
This fashionable restaurant overlooking the Hori-kawa serves beautifully presented Pan-Asian dishes to match its Asian-modern style. Among the eclectic choices: Chinese yam with scallops, rare tuna steak and grilled eel with rice. Open 'til midnight for stylish drinks too.
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Gomeikan
This long-time Nagano favourite serves delicious tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet), vegetarian Indian curry, beefsteak, and coffee and cake in an old renovated building next to the post office on Chūō-dōri.
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Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers a festive crowd most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
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Marusei
A stone's throw from the temple on Nakamise-dōri, tiny, unassuming Marusei serves soba and a well-liked tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet); the Marusei bentō (boxed meal; ¥1350) lets you try both.
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Myōgaya
A good-for-you vibe pervades this tiny, organic restaurant and food shop, which is adorned with natural fibres, a block east of the train station. Look for tasty vegetarian curry with brown rice, samosas, fruit juices, dandelion tea and coffees. Reservations are requested on Saturdays.
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