Restaurants in Nagano Ken
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Robata Shōya
On a corner in the town centre is this classic, lively yakitori-ya (restaurant specialising in yakitori), with a large selection of grills, seasonal specials and a (sort of) English menu.
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Munch
Japanese reggae is the soundtrack at this youthful contemporary izakaya. Order small plates like agedashi-dofu (fried tofu), basashi (horsemeat sashimi) or niku-jaga (meat and potatoes), washed down with ichigo (strawberry) or mikan (mandarin orange) sake. Or say how much you want to spend and let the chef surprise you. From the Zenkōji exit of the station, turn right through the alley and just past the car park.
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Tofu Café Gorokutei
From the pancakes to the parfaits, just about everything here is made with Japan's favourite protein (although the 'tofu hamburger' also has a little ground chicken). It's in Patio Daimon, an open-air collection of small buildings built like kura, by the Daimon and Daimon Minami bus stops. Picture menu.
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Shizuka
Friendly, traditional izakaya serving favourites like oden and yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken). Some more challenging local specialities are on the English menu.
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Ramen Kameya
Nothing fancy here, just rāmen served in traditional Chinese style (chūka), with Shinshū miso or even kimchi. It's popular with the late-night after-drinking crowd, with all that entails. Look for the chalkboard on the wall across from the hotel carpark.
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Gohonjin Fujiya
Until recently, this was Nagano's most venerable hotel (since 1648 – look for 'Hotel Fujiya' on signage), but it quit the hotel business and has transformed itself into the city's most venerable Western restaurant. Try sweet potato gnocchi with mascarpone sauce or wa-gyū (Japanese beef) sirloin. The imposing 1923 building mixes Japanese and art deco motifs.
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Nomugi
In Nakamachi, this is one of central Japan's finest soba shops. Its owner used to run a French restaurant in Tokyo before returning to his home town. There's one dish: zaru-soba in a wicker basket; plus kake-soba (¥1300), which is served during the colder months.
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Gomeikan
This long-time Nagano favourite serves delicious tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet), vegetarian Indian curry, beefsteak, and coffee and cake in an old renovated building next to the post office on Chūō-dōri.
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Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers a festive crowd most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
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Marusei
A stone's throw from the temple on Nakamise-dōri, tiny, unassuming Marusei serves soba and a well-liked tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet); the Marusei bentō (boxed meal; ¥1350) lets you try both.
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Kura
Located near Nakamachi, Kura serves meticulously prepared sushi and tempura for lunch and dinner in a stylish former warehouse. For the daring: basashi (raw horse meat).
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Sukitei
Tops in town for succulent sukiyaki. Meals include udon, gyusashi (beef sashimi) and more. The price of the top-grade beef is sky-high, but if you try it you may never go back to the cheaper stuff. It's set on the river, and is well worth the ¥1600 taxi ride from the station.
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Vamonos
This sweet little Mexican cantina serves enchiladas, burritos, nachos, large salads and dainty but potent margaritas. Look for the sign on the 2nd floor.
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Old Rock
A block south of the river and across the street from Nakamachi, this popular gaijin pub attracts a lively crowd on weekend nights. Good lunch specials and a wide selection of beers are available.
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Bakery's Street Café
Dozens of bakeries from around Shinshu take turns supplying the wares. On Chūō-dōri, en route to Zenkō-ji, 12 minutes' walk from the station.
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Sweet
If you're looking for a quick coffee and cake, cafés line the banks of the Metoba-gawa and Nawate-dōri. Sweet is typical.
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Oyaki Kōbō
Oyaki (filled wheat buns) with tasty flavours like pumpkin, mushroom and eggplant.
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Kashin Miwa
Has ice cream made with soba (only in Nagano) near Zenkōji's Niōmon
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Yayoi-za
A homey 150-year-old shop specialising in seiro-mushi (ingredients steamed in a wood and bamboo box). The standard is monzen seiro-mushi (local beef and vegetables; ¥1680), while vegetarians can enjoy onyasai salada (steamed vegetables in sesame sauce; ¥840). For dessert, try kuri-an cream (chestnut-paste mousse; ¥525).
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Uncle Steven's Mexican Food
This is one of the most popular restaurants in Hakuba. The burrito, chimichanga and enchiladas are all quite authentic and the portions are big, though you may find it a little on the expensive side.
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India the Spice
This eccentric cafe is festooned with every kind of wall clock imaginable, and specialises in variations on the theme of curry; lunch sets include omu-karē (rice wrapped in an omelette in keema curry sauce; ¥900). Going up Chūō-dōri, take a right when you see the food stall in a red bus beside the road, then take another right. Look for signboards and vine leaves around the entrance.
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Fujiki-an
The clean, contemporary setting belies this soba shop's history (since 1827) of making fresh soba from the north of Nagano-ken. There's a picture menu: seiro-mori soba (cold soba on a bamboo mat; ¥900) lets the flavour shine; other favourites are sansai, kinoko (mushroom) tempura (¥1400) or nishin (herring; ¥1200).
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Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers lively crowds most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam, with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
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Bamboo Coffee Bar
On the left as you exit Hakuba Staion, this recently opened Aussie-run cafe has great specialty coffees and panini sandwiches.
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Asian Night Market
Part cafe, part humble-jumble Thai clothing and knick-knack shop, this storefront is at once sweet and hip. It has English-speaking staff, beer, cocktails, soft drinks including Thai coffee, Thai food, and nooks for browsing.
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