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Akbar
Kingston's best Indian restaurant draws crowds for its gracious service, garden graced by a fountain and reasonably priced menu that includes tandoori and vegetarian dishes, complemented by excellent Indian breads. Be sure to insist on extra spiciness, if fire's what you crave. Akbar offers a buffet lunch special.
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Ashanti Oasis
If an oasis within a garden is hard to envision, check out this serene spot centered on a small fountain. You'll be rewarded with excellent vegetarian food from a changing I-tal menu featuring hearty soups (the pumpkin is absolutely divine), veggie burgers and combo platters anchored by a variety of tofu offerings. Fresh juices or a glass of the homemade aloe wine are a must.
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Carlos' Café
A pleasant, spacious bar serving pastas, surf 'n' turf, and stuffed crab backs. Meals are served until late.
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Chelsea Jerk Centre
Legendary for its mouth-searing jerk pork and chicken, this congenial jerk emporium draws the after-work crowd as well as uptown-based visitors grateful for a chance to get off the main drag. The festival dumplings are especially good.
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Chez Maria
Whether you sit in the garden beneath the mango tree or grab a table on the front terrace, you'll be treated to fine Lebanese cuisine. The mezes, notably the hummus, are excellent and are complimented by homemade pita bread. A host of shawarmas and kebabs awaits if you still have an appetite.
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Columbus Restaurant
Superlative Italian fare is lovingly prepared in this swanky restaurant popular with business travelers and fashionable Kingstonians. The chefs have a way with pasta - which is to be expected for the price tag - and the gnocchi with wild mushrooms is to die for, but the amaretto cheesecake suggests genius.
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Devon House I-Scream
Behind Devon House, it sells excellent ice cream.
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El Dorado Room
The European menu has hints of the Caribbean as well as Jamaican favorites such as pepperpot soup and grilled snapper. Bring a sweater for the frigid air-conditioning. The hotel also has a less expensive outdoor restaurant that serves continental fare. A seafood buffet is offered for Wednesday lunch and dinner. A Jamaican buffet lunch is offered weekdays, and a Sunday brunch buffet draws the well-heeled, hungry locals.
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Emperial Kish Inn
The sign over the bar reading 'Love the Animals' immediately reveals where the place is coming from. The only flesh here - yourself notwithstanding - is that which is pressed in the local greeting, the Jamaican 'yardie' handshake, where friends press their fists together while swiping thumbs. On the menu is gluten brownstew, curry tofu, roast yams and an ongoing dialogue about the intricacies of Rastafari.
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Food Court at Sovereign Centre
For something quick, there are dozens of fast-food joints around town. Some of the major shopping centers, such as Sovereign Centre, have food courts - whole floors dedicated to fast-food outlets. For produce, head to Papine Market at the top end of Hope Rd, where ultrafresh vegetables are trucked in straight from the Blue Mountains, or to the market north of uptown on Constant Spring Rd.
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Grog Shoppe
Lodged in an expansive brick building that used to be the servants' quarters for Devon House, this atmospheric choice has the look and feel of a colonial pub. The menu features classic pub lunches such as corned tongue and tinkered-with Jamaica favorites such as ackee crepes, baked crab backs and roast suckling pig with rice and peas. It's known for its Sunday brunch. There's live music Tuesday to Saturday evenings.
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Heather's Garden Restaurant
Grab a table near the immense mango tree stretching through a hole in the roof and savor moderately priced fare ranging from Jamaican crab backs and Cajun-style blackened fish to cottage pie, charbroiled lamb chops, kebabs and seafood. The bar scene gets increasingly raucous with singles as the evening progresses.
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Holburn Bar & Grill
This breezy 2nd-floor restaurant is a casual affair with a pool table and delicious 'fish in foil' - a whole snapper steamed with veggies and spices.
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Hot Pot
A casual, economical haunt with a small back patio that attracts workers from the nearby hotels, Hot Pot serves unfussy, indisputably delicious Jamaican home-style cooking with dishes such as ackee and saltfish, escoveitched fish and garlic chicken. Wash it down with a fresh tamarind juice, coconut water or a Red Stripe.
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Jade Garden
You'll forget you're eating in a mall once you step into this elegant spot - particularly if you can grab a table with a view of the mountains. Highlighting the à la carte menu are the deep-fried prawns and a sizzling meat combo platter called Subgum War Bar, but the Sunday dim-sum brunch is really the big draw here.
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Juici-Beef Patties
Lots of places sell patties for less than US$1 . Patty King and Juici-Beef Patties charge around US$1 . Uptown, try Tastee Patties.
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Legend Café
Offering sustenance to visitors to Bob's former home, this café serves up hearty I-tal stew or curried fish. The fruit juices are the star here - including Bob's favorite, carrot and beetroot.
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Livity
The best vegetarian option in New Kingston, Livity serves up an array of veggie fajitas, soups, salads and tofu dishes. Service can be a little slow, but if you order one of the outstanding fruit juices - try the mango pineapple or the lemonade - and get an outdoor seat, the wait's easy to bear.
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Mac's Chop House
Perhaps Mac should pay more attention to the chops heralded by its name, as the steaks at this sleek yet intimate spot next door to the Quad nightclub do not justify the New York prices. Nevertheless, the appetizers (notably an unforgettable smoked marlin 'trilogy') and the fish dishes are excellent. The wine list is one of the widest-ranging on the island. Reservations essential.
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Moby Dick
A terrific option for a pre- or post-National Gallery visit, this former sailors' hangout has been popular for its curries and rotis for nearly a century. The curried goat is truly outstanding, as is the conch version when available. Fortify yourself with one of the fresh juices.
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Norma's on the Terrace
Although it's popularity seems to be on the wane outside the expense-account class, this lovechild of Jamaica's leading food emissary Norma Shirley is Kingston's most celebrated restaurant. The seasonal menu explores Caribbean-fusion food with great finesse.
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Orient Express
One of the precious few options for a decent meal downtown, this joint offers a reasonably good Chinese menu.
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Patty King
Lots of places sell patties for less than US$1 . Patty King and Juici-Beef Patties charge about US$1 . Uptown, try Tastee Patties.
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Pepper's
This friendly open-air eatery is a highly popular after-work hangout among Kingstonians. It has picnic tables, plenty of Red Stripe, and seriously good jerk dishes and seafood favorites including grilled lobster and garlic crab. The two bars are open late.
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Red Bones Blues Café
The in-crowd is in at this former colonial house, now a beehive of cultural and culinary activity. Inside, the shukka-shukka of martini shakers keeps time with the music, and the walls are beguilingly bedecked with photographs of jazz and blues legends. The food? Stellar dishes include chicken breast stuffed with callaloo and jerked cheddar in a white wine sauce, or the seafood trio of shrimp, mussels and salmon sautéed in a spicy coconut sauce served on a bed of pasta.
