Central Coast & Elba
Tuscan romance oozes out of every last blade of grass at this stylish wooden shack, framed by pea-green lawns peppered with tables and Persian picnic rugs…
Must-see restaurants in Central Coast & Elba
Livorno
Owned by three sommeliers, this wine bar in the historic Mercato Centrale has a menu that changes according to what produce is fresh and plentiful on the…
Ristoro Agricolo Montefabbrello
Elba
A model of slow and sustainable cuisine, this organic restaurant on the Montefabbrello farm grows its own wheat to make pasta, grapes to make wine and…
Central Coast & Elba
Worthy recipient of a Slow Food accolade (the only Suvereto eatery so honoured), this osteria (casual tavern) opposite the handsome 13th-century palazzo…
Antica Torteria Al Mercato da Gagarin
Livorno
There is no finer blast to old-world Livorno than this retro snack bar, little changed since its 1959 opening. Push through the plastic fly-net veiling…
Livorno
Everything about this water-edge bistro is sassy, fresh and on trend. Plump for a place around one huge long shared table outside or enjoy the romance of…
Livorno
Locals speak of La Barrocciaia with great fondness – partly because of a homely interior that’s alive with banter, but also because of its simple but…
Central Coast & Elba
For memorable seafood and fish dishes reserve a table at this celebrated, Michelin-starred ristorante by the sea in Marina di Bibbona, 10km west of…
Central Coast & Elba
This wine-lined enoteca is a temple to taste, both gastronomic and oenological. Sassicaia is among dozens of local wines available to sample – some more…
Elba
No resort-style glamour or pretension at this popular spaghetteria – just friendly down-to-earth service and exceptionally tasty seafood pasta served in a…
Livorno
They've been in business since 1965, so the friendly Nardis know how to keep their customers happy. As much an enoteca (wine bar) as Slow Food–hailed…
Elba
The philosophy here is laudable: use fresh local produce (organic where possible), ensure that the flavours are as natural as possible, and serve the…
Elba
Those on the hunt for Elba's best fish dish need look no further – the fish stew here is a flavoursome pile of shellfish, tomato and saffron topped by a…
Elba
This family-run bistro in hilltop Marciana is the type of place where the bread is homemade and flavoured with fennel, chestnut flour and other seasonal…
Central Coast & Elba
Fine wine, wood-aged grappa, olive oil, honey and other gourmet treats produced on the restaurant's farm and vineyard go into the sensational cuisine of…
Livorno
Join locals at this local institution for a sweet sugar hit after enjoying a late-afternoon passeggiata (stroll) on the Terrazza Mascagni. Made fresh each…
Livorno
The largest covered market in Italy, this 95m-long neoclassical building miraculously survived Allied WWII bombing. Arresting both gastronomically and…
Livorno
In business since 1969, this family pastificio crafts fresh pasta to cook at home or eat in, at bar stools inside the Mercato Centrale. A B&W photograph…
Livorno
American burgers, onion rings, pancakes and all-day breakfasts are cooked up at this 1950s-styled surf bar and American diner adjoining Livorno's aquarium…
Central Coast & Elba
Even in gourmet Tuscany, the craving for a burger can strike, and when it does, join the buoyant local crowd at Gianluca and Gabriele's young, fun,…
Elba
Much-loved by locals, this traditional address sees chef Massimo cook up the very best of Tuscan produce with a generous peppering of simplicity. The menu…
Livorno
For affordable seafood waterside, make a beeline for this sea-blue shack with plastic tables and chairs overlooking a canal in 'Little Venice'. A Marshall…
Central Coast & Elba
What makes this seafood restaurant at Porta di Baratti so unique is the 15th-century watchtower that the modern building is wrapped around. The freshly…
Elba
Fish drives the menu of this traditional osteria (casual tavern) – no wonder, as the boats that land it are moored right outside. Traditional dishes such…
Elba
The floor-to-ceiling windows at this formal, hillside restaurant at the lower end of Poggio village create the sense of eating in a classy treehouse,…
Livorno
Its name means 'the Anchor', an acknowledgement of this building's history as a 17th-century marine workshop. The vaulted-brick interior is atmospheric,…
Livorno
Harbour workers are the first to fill the long wooden tables at this unpretentious osteria (casual tavern), with other locals following close behind…
Elba
They work the pizza chef so hard here that the dining room sometimes has a smoky tinge. To go local, start with a lip-smacking plate of torta di ceci …
Central Coast & Elba
When a wine bar is as friendly as this, the fact that it also serves great food comes as a delightful surprise. Michele Innocenti is a genial host and…
Livorno
It's rare to encounter a Livornese who isn't a fan of the delectable frati (doughnuts) and scagliozzi (fried polenta) that have been made at this simple…
Elba
In the maze of lanes leading off from the main square (Piazza Matteotti), hunt out the flower-framed deck of this osteria (casual tavern), which sets the…
Central Coast & Elba
The Painter's Tavern has a rustic dining room that's full of charm, but the best tables are under the orange trees outside. The menu specialises in local…
Trattoria e Pizzeria Da Zucchetta
Elba
The setting is homely rather than smart (a couple of TVs show the nightly news), but the seafood here is top-notch. The gnocchi or pappardelle are packed…
Elba
Ignore the waterfront’s menu-touting waiters and instead duck down Largo Garibaldi to find this unassuming, no-frills trattoria. In business since 1930,…
Central Coast & Elba
The chef here buys fish fresh every day and cooks it however his fancy dictates – hence the compulsory set menu rather than an à la carte array. Tables…
Central Coast & Elba
On busy weekends, staff here do an excellent job filling cups and cones with the house-made gelato. They also make coffee and serve it to customers on the…
Elba
A Portoferraio favourite, this harbourside restaurant has a long terrace overlooking a string of bobbing yachts. White napery and efficient service…
Livorno
This bakery in the Mercato Centrale, at the start of the far-left aisle when entering the market from Via del Cardinale, specialises in gluten-free breads…
Ristorante Il Chiasso dal 1973
Elba
Tucked down an alley (chiasso) enlivened only by the odd line of washing, Il Chiasso has been serving up simply cooked seafood since 1973 and has a loyal…
Elba
Staff shuck fresh oysters and prepare platters of raw seafood treats at a counter in the middle of this hugely popular osteria, taking care of the…
