Must-see restaurants in Western Sicily

  • Pasticceria di Maria Grammatico

    Erice

    This cafe-pasticceria is run by Maria Grammatico, Sicily's most famous pastry chef, and the subject of Mary Taylor Simeti's book Bitter Almonds – a series…

  • Hotel-Ristorante Pocho

    Western Sicily

    Dinner is an unforgettable feast for the eyes and palate at this sensational hotel-restaurant, dramatically perched on a cliff edge overlooking Isulidda…

  • I Sapori

    Western Sicily

    Pure paradise for meat lovers, this highly recommended Sicilian grill cooks up top-quality cuts from the adjoining butcher's shop. Be it Tuscan Chianina…

  • Da Vittorio

    Western Sicily

    Travellers with their own vehicles should consider detouring 15km east of Selinunte to this venerable eatery right on the beach in Porto Palo. In business…

  • Osteria del Sotto Sale

    Western Sicily

    The atmosphere is casual-chic at this welcoming osteria (tavern) with indoor and outdoor seating on Favignana's main pedestrian street. An offshoot of the…

  • Quimera

    Marsala

    Smack in the heart of Marsala's pedestrianised centre, this buzzy eating-drinking hybrid is the local hotspot for artisanal craft beers, gourmet…

  • Syrah Ristorante

    Western Sicily

    San Vito's refined choice, Syrah is a chic ode to contemporary ceramic wall art and modern Sicilian cuisine. Its parasol-shaded courtyard garden is a more…

  • La Cambusa

    Western Sicily

    The finest Sicilian cheeses and artisan sauces, cured, roasted and marinated meats, veg dishes and breads tempt at this gastronomic butcher's shop and…

  • La Bettolaccia

    Trapani

    Unwaveringly authentic, this on-trend Slow Food favourite, squirrelled away down a sleepy side street, is the hotspot to feast on spicy couscous with…

  • La Bettola

    Western Sicily

    Over the past few decades, chef-owner Pietro Sardo has established a reputation as one of Sicily's top chefs. At this fine-dining seafood restaurant, just…

  • Ristorante del Golfo

    Western Sicily

    Formally dressed waiters roll out the day's catch on a vintage wooden trolley for diners to inspect and select before cooking at this perennial seafood…

  • Il Principe e il Pirata

    Pantelleria

    Enjoying sublime sea views from its turquoise-tiled terrace, the Prince and the Pirate cranks out exquisite pantesco (Pantelleria-style) cuisine, from…

  • Tramura

    Trapani

    Grandly set on the coastal walkway atop the old city walls, this casual eatery sports brilliant sea views with not a car in sight. Potted plants suspended…

  • Caupona Taverna di Sicilia

    Trapani

    Fresh fish rules the menu at this fabulous family-run spot two blocks from the port, which markets itself very much as 'la casa del cuscus trapanese' (the…

  • Lido Zabbara

    Western Sicily

    For tasty, reasonably priced food near the ruins, hit this low-key beach eatery, rocking it on the sand since 1969. Affable long-time owner Jòjò welcomes…

  • Ristorante Sotto Sale

    Western Sicily

    Favignana's favourite spot for a romantic dinner, Sotto Sale caters to a sophisticated crowd with beautifully presented nouvelle Sicilian cuisine. Savour…

  • Trattoria Il Veliero

    Western Sicily

    Just north of the hydrofoil dock, this family-run waterfront eatery is a seafood-lover's fantasy. Chef-owner Peppe Bevilacqua goes to the market daily,…

  • Bar Nettuno

    Western Sicily

    Tucked into the cobbled courtyard at the heart of Scopello, this busy bar has a lovely terrace that really is ideal for savouring late-afternoon drinks or…

  • Trattoria da Papù

    Western Sicily

    Dodge the tourist crowds and duck into this traditional eatery, complete with fish-net-strung walls and B&W action shots of island fishermen working their…

  • La Pineta

    Western Sicily

    You couldn't ask for a peachier beach setting. From the entrance of the Foce del Belice nature preserve on Marinella's far eastern edge, a gravel track…

  • Al Tramonto

    Pantelleria

    As the name implies, this hillside-hugging restaurant is the perfect place to watch the tramonto (sunset) – but the food here is equally radiant, from…

  • Lida La Sirenetta

    Western Sicily

    A year-round Sunday-lunch favourite with locals, this large beachfront restaurant really comes into its own in summer when its tables spill outside onto…

  • 210 Grammi

    Trapani

    What with the giant pasta pictures splashed above the white-tiled open kitchen and the photo-loaded tablet provided alongside printed menus, it's…

  • Eyem Zemen

    Western Sicily

    For a taste of Tunisia, try this delightful hole-in-the-wall in the heart of La Casbah, marked by a bilingual Italian-Arabic sign. Tunisian owner Fatiha…

  • Osteria Il Moro

    Trapani

    The upmarket dining choice, Il Moro ('The Dark') is actually a light and soothing, all-cream space with elegant white tablecloths, vases of fresh flowers…

  • Bar Arcobaleno

    Western Sicily

    Perched directly above the tiny port, Gino's no-frills village cafe cooks up a bird's-eye view of the big blue sea and ferries sailing to the island…

  • Tavernetta Ai Lumi

    Trapani

    Housed in what was palazzo stables in the 18th century, this old-world tavern with peeling racing-green paintwork and a market-fuelled kitchen on Trapani…

  • Carni e Delizi

    Trapani

    It doesn't get more local than this neighbourhood macelleria (butcher's shop) and deli, with a street cart selling panini con mezza (burgers) and a…

  • Punto e Pasta

    Marsala

    Pasta fiends will be in foodie heaven in this veritable ode to pasta. Be it ravioli, tortellini, gnocchi, pappardelle or the region's much-loved busiata,…

  • Tentazioni di Gusto

    Trapani

    ‘Tentazioni’ (temptation) is the buzzword at Gusto, a contemporary-styled space with street lounge made for romantic aperitivo-quaffing and a creative…

  • Assud

    Marsala

    Mackerel and pistachio caponata, ravioli with beetroot and artichokes, or swordfish patties studded with squid chunks are among the classics with an…

  • Trattoria del Sale

    Western Sicily

    At this atmospheric eatery, much loved for its cinematic location amid salt pans, tuck into smoked swordfish, salted tuna, garlicky mussels or oregano…

  • La Rinascente

    Trapani

    Push your way through the beaded fly screen to enter this old-school bakery, unchanged since 1969. But, then, admiring the vintage white-marble work top…

  • Il Dolce Angolo

    Trapani

    For sensational cannoli, pistachio-studded biscotti (cookies) and a rainbow of other sweet creations crafted in one-bite form by talented patissier…

  • Al Ritrovo

    Western Sicily

    This unassuming roadside eatery, 8km south of San Vito, features couscous prominently on the menu. However, there are also plenty of seafood and meat…

  • Ristorante Monte San Giuliano

    Erice

    Atmosphere-wise, this is one of Erice's more appealing eateries, entered through a crumbling archway that leads into a cool patio graced with drooping…

  • Il Gallo e l'Innamorata

    Marsala

    Warm-orange walls and arched stone doorways lend an artsy, convivial atmosphere to this Slow Food–acclaimed eatery whose wonderfully evocative name…

  • Spaghetteria Pakkaro

    Western Sicily

    The chef cooks up tasty, unpretentious pasta and seafood dishes at this down-to-earth, atmospheric trattoria on Favignana's central piazza. Try busiate …

  • Al Solito Posto

    Trapani

    A 15-minute walk east of the centre, this local hangout is a perennial Slow Food favourite. The food is superb: from primi like busiate al pesce spada e…

  • Divino…Rosso

    Marsala

    With outdoor tables on Marsala’s main pedestrian thoroughfare, this lively restaurant and wine bar serves pizzas, over 150 different wines and an…