Must-see restaurants in Northwestern Italy

  • Ö Bansin

    Rapallo

    Ligurian comfort food – salt cod fritters, chickpea soup, spinach-stuffed pasta with walnut sauce, mussels gratin – gets served up here with a minimum of…

  • Gambero Rosso

    Vernazza

    If you've been subsisting on focaccia, Gambero's house specials – tegame di Vernazza (anchovies with baked potatoes and tomatoes), grilled rock octopus or…

  • Margutte Polenta da Strada

    Turin

    For a satisfying midday snack, make your way to this tiny shop with just a handful of seats a few blocks from Piazza Castelo. Creamy rich polenta is…

  • La Terraza

    Courmayeur

    This attractive, lively, central bar-restaurant-pizzeria has an array of Valdostan dishes and local specialities – including polenta with fontina and…

  • Anciua

    Porto Venere

    A perfect spot to pick up something to snack on while dangling your feet in the drink, this is Ligurian street food made with love. Grab a panini stuffed…

  • Pasta & Basta

    Ventimiglia

    Near the seafront on the border side of town (overlooking the new marina) you'll find elegant Pasta & Basta. Various house-made fresh pasta can be mixed…

  • Bistrot del Porticciolo

    Tigullio & Baia del Levante

    After a walk on the pretty seafront promenade of Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, make your way to Nervi's tiny picturesque harbour (about 1km west of the…

  • Barolo Friends

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    An easy, contemporary place that does Piedmontese staples but, helpfully, doesn't keep to rigid service hours or menu formats. Need a quick vitello…

  • Osteria della Chiocciola

    Cuneo

    Slow Food–affiliated Chiocciola's upstairs dining room is the colour of buttercups and makes for a soothing setting to linger over expertly crafted local,…

  • Rifugio Elisabetta

    Courmayeur

    For a memorable lunch with front-row views of Mont Blanc and the Lex Blanche glacier, head for the ample sun terrace at Rifugio Elisabetta, high on the…

  • Focacceria Sant'Agostino

    Turin

    Liguria's moreish focaccia has crossed the border and Sant'Agostino's is one of the best. Whether it's plain, stuffed with straccino cheese or topped with…

  • Antinè

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    Sigh-worthy meals are to be had at this justifiably well-regarded restaurant, upstairs in what used to be the village prison. They do the Piedmontese…

  • Caffè Ducale

    San Remo

    Italian panache with a perfectly positioned terrace in front make this elegant cafe-enoteca-salon de thé one of the most appealing spots in town for a…

  • Bellavista

    La Spezia

    A short stroll from Piazza Cavour, Bellavista hits all the right notes, with high-quality produce, good service and creative dishes all served up at a…

  • Urbicia Vivas

    San Remo

    Basking in a quiet medieval square in San Remo's remarkable old town, Urbicia is slavishly faithful to old Ligurian recipes, with a strong bias towards…

  • La Cantinetta

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    A sunny outside terrace is the big draw here, although you'll be far from unhappy with the menu of local dishes: Ligurian rolled rabbit, risotto with…

  • Trattoria degli Artisti

    Aosta

    Fabulous Valdostan cuisine is dished up at this dark and cosy trattoria, tucked down an alleyway off Via E Aubert. Antipasti such as puff pastry filled…

  • Osteria dell'Oca

    Aosta

    Oca means 'goose' and there are plenty, both on the menu and reproduced in hilariously kitsch china forms around the room. This quaint perch under an…

  • Il Porticciolo

    Vernazza

    In a perfect location on the waterfront, Il Porticciolo whips up heavenly perfection in its all-natural gelato. Indulge in fruit flavors like strawberry,…

  • Rooster

    Genoa

    A cute little hole in the wall that breathes new life into the traditional rotisserie chicken. Birds are all free range and local; buy them whole (from €9…

  • Vecchia Rapallo

    Rapallo

    Seafood is the star here, and it's done well with the occasional creative touch. House-made stuffed pastas have particular appeal – sea bream ravioli…

  • Bütiega

    Corniglia

    If you need a break from sit-down restaurant fare, pay a visit to this lovely deli and food shop. The front counter offers oven-baked veggies, made-to…

  • Il Pescato Cucinato

    Riomaggiore

    Riomaggiore's standout street food is a mound of fresh fried seafood – calamari, anchovies, shrimp, cod – stuffed into a paper cone and served on the go…

  • La Dolce Morella

    Genoa

    A selection of beautiful traditional gelato flavours are complemented by a creative menu of semifreddo-filled cups, ice-cream sandwiches and chocolate…

  • Da Laura

    Tigullio & Baia del Levante

    This pleasant restaurant with a shaded terrace fringed by lemon trees serves the best cooking in San Fruttuoso. Seafood dishes (grilled fish, spaghetti…

  • IL Porticciolo Foodrink

    Manarola

    Opposite the more sedate restaurant of the same name, this lively spot with its Latin grooves serves up a small selection of inexpensive specials (pasta…

  • Marina Piccola

    Manarola

    A number of fish dishes, including some tasty antipasti such as soppressata di polpo (sliced boiled octopus) are served up here along with right-by-the…

  • Antico Forno della Casana

    Genoa

    A much-loved local institution, this back-lane bakery fires up some of Genoa's best focaccia, which are available in countless varieties. The Antico Forno…

  • Gianni Franzi

    Vernazza

    Traditional Cinque Terre seafood (mussels, seafood ravioli and lemon anchovies) has been served up in this harbourside trattoria since the 1960s. When it…

  • Dau Cila

    Riomaggiore

    Perched within pebble-lobbing distance of Riomaggiore's wee harbour, Dau Cila is a smart, kitsch-free zone, and specialises in classic seafood and hyper…

  • Miky

    Monterosso

    If you're looking for something a little more elegant than a seafront fry-up, Miky does a seasonal fish menu in a moody, modern dining room. Booking ahead…

  • Caffè degli Argenti

    Turin

    Sip cups of molten coffee in the glorious, gold-on-black Sala Cinese of the Venaria Reale palace. Also on order are top-quality panini, pastries and ice…

  • Salumeria Chiesa

    Riviera di Ponente

    Presided over by Laura Chiesa, this delicatessen offers a huge array of seafood salads, salamis, cheeses and gnocchi with pesto, of course. Order what you…

  • Dai Pescatori

    La Spezia

    Down on the waterfront, this casual spot is a local institution for delicious plates of octopus salad, steamed mussels and fried fish plates. It's quite…

  • Gelateria 5 Terre

    Manarola

    In the running for the title of Cinque Terre's best ice-cream joints. Superbly crafted flavours, including vegan and lactose-free options, never fail to…

  • Il Porticciolo

    Manarola

    One of several restaurants lining the main route down to the harbour, this is a popular spot for an alfresco seafood feast. Expect seaside bustle and a…

  • L'Ancora della Tortuga

    Monterosso

    Perched on a cliff overlooking the crashing waves, this long-running spot serves high-end seafood-topped pastas, grilled fish and roast meat dishes in a…

  • KM0

    Corniglia

    This casual spot serves simple but delicious market-fresh fare. Think well-balanced seafood risotto, tomato and mozzarella salad, hearty plates of ravioli…

  • Pan e Vin

    Corniglia

    An all-around good option, no matter the time of day. Friendly staff serve up hearty breakfasts, focaccia sandwiches, wine and appetiser specials, and a…

  • La Chaumière

    Courmayeur

    Set on the slopes above Courmayeur, within walking distance of the cable car, is the fabulous sun-kissed terrace of La Chaumière. Views straight down the…