Must-see nightlife in Northwestern Italy

  • Caffè-Vini Emilio Ranzini

    Turin

    Location scouts looking for a neighbourhood bar from Turin's midcentury glory days would jump on this little place. A crew of local shopkeepers, creatives…

  • Monviso Coffee Factory

    Alba

    Hidden on a tiny lane just south of Piazza del Risorgimento, Monviso pours the best coffee in town. Amid low-playing indie rock, recycled furnishings and…

  • Luogo Divino

    Turin

    The excellent, and not ridiculously priced, wines here are poured after a discussion about your likes, mood and whims. While wine is the raison d'etre, it…

  • Il Cicchetto

    Asti

    A festive spot for a negroni or a creative gin cocktail in the evening, Il Cicchetto also has some excellent wines by the glass (Barbera, Barolo and some…

  • Odioilvino

    La Spezia

    A dark, bohemian, elegantly dishevelled wine bar on a pretty street in the pedestrian centre, Odioilvino is a fine place to relax with locals over a…

  • Enoteca Botz

    Turin

    Come to this Vanchiglia triangle stalwart for good wine served by serious wine pros at reasonable prices. Plus you get to hang out with some of the…

  • Decanter

    Aosta

    A friendly, much-loved wine shop and bar where you can taste some of the Aosta Valley's excellent produce. Charcuterie boards, melted tomino cheese with…

  • Bar la Marina

    Tellaro

    A simple tiny bar dispenses spritzes and wine to tables on the tiny port's cobblestones. Time your visit for sunset and you'll understand what so…

  • Da Emilia

    Turin

    This Vanchiglia local is everything you could want in a neighbourhood bar: come for coffee, have a bite to eat, drop in for a good wine or nicely made…

  • Monkey Artpub

    Vernazza

    Hidden on a narrow lane a few steps off the harbour, Monkey Artpub is an atmospheric drinking den with dark stone walls, an artfully lit shelf of…

  • La Conchiglia

    Riomaggiore

    There's much to like about La Conchiglia: its well-priced local wine list, perfect waterfront location and a menu of big, healthy salads, panini and…

  • 5 Terre Bistrot

    Vernazza

    Slightly concealed above the chapel along Vernazza's main street, this small wine shop and bar is a fine place to sample some of Cinque Terre's finest…

  • Ananasso Bar

    Vernazza

    Go early to score a seat at this youthful, easy-going terrace cafe, with its yellow-umbrella-shaded tables perched above Vernazza's tiny beach. Aside from…

  • La Cantina dello Zio Bramante

    Manarola

    Just below street level, this friendly local watering hole is the best place in town for some late-night revelry. There's live music on weekends (and more…

  • Fiorio

    Turin

    Garner literary inspiration in Mark Twain's old window seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a cafe where 19th-century students once plotted…

  • Caffè Torino

    Turin

    This chandelier-lit showpiece opened in 1903. A brass plaque of the city's emblem, a bull (Torino in Italian means 'little bull'), is embedded in the…

  • Beerba

    Turin

    This easy-going bar in San Salvario spreads one of the best apericena buffets in the city. You'll find salads, pastas, pizzas, baked dishes, grilled…

  • In Bottiglieria

    Aosta

    Hidden down an alley, a young, well-dressed local crowd fills this stone-vaulted cellar for aperitivo and later on weekends. The wine selection is great…

  • Caffè Mulassano

    Turin

    Elbow your way to the bar or hope for a seat at one of the five wee tables at this art nouveau gem, where regulars sink espresso in piedi (standing)…

  • La Spezia Brewing Company

    La Spezia

    Founded by two Swedes back in 2016, La Spezia Brewing Company makes some of the finest beers in the Italian Riviera. The taproom keeps irregular hours,…

  • Pastis

    Turin

    A cute take on Paris in the '60s, this day-night bar has a loyal local following. Young Torinese come for big weekend brunches, a nightly aperitivo spread…

  • A Piè de Campu

    Manarola

    Serves up excellent wines and small plates on a terrace in the upper part of town. Come in the daytime to explore Cinque Terre's unique wines in the…

  • La Mancina

    Camogli

    A couple of stools outside will give you a sea view, but the real action here is inside, where books line the walls and locals chat with the welcoming…

  • Ad Forum

    Aosta

    A stylish garden and indoor-outdoor rooms are built on part of the remains of the Roman forum and fill up with locals at aperitivo hour. They have a great…

  • L'Officina

    Piedmont

    A nicely urban-feeling pub up in the shopping mall that stays open later than some and has good wine and cocktails, as well as a super-cheap tapas menu if…

  • Wine Not?

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    A stylish little wine bar and shop where you can taste the region's best wines. Their motto is 'drink wine not labels'. Pick up local chocolate and…

  • Hiroshima Mon Amour

    Turin

    This legendary dance club features everything from folk and punk to tango and techno. Check the website for specific opening hours and details on the…

  • Barolino Cocchi

    Turin

    A jewelbox-sized beautifully decorated neighbourhood drinking den where you can join locals over vermouth-fuelled sessions most nights. There's also a…

  • Winterose

    Portofino

    A serious wine shop with simple tables right on the waterfront for your nightly aperitivo. It's a yachties' favourite.

  • UVA

    Genoa

    If you're keen to taste the best of Italian wine and not on a multiple-region trip, this bar breaks out of the local-is-best mould and offers a long list…

  • I Tre Galli

    Turin

    A Quadrilatero favourite that's been here for over two decades, Tre Galli is spacious and rustic, cool but warm. It's a fine spot for a drink at any time,…

  • Vincafé

    Alba

    Squeeze through the door of this friendly spot and sift through a list of over 350 varieties or, if in doubt, have a Barolo. Come at lunch or dinner for…

  • Fratelli Klainguti

    Genoa

    Pre-dating cappuccinos, Klainguti opened in 1828 and its Mittel European charms, and presumably its strudel and pastries, had Verdi and Garibaldi coming…

  • Café degli Specchi

    Genoa

    A bit of Turin disconnected and relocated 150km to the south, this tiled art-deco showpiece was (and is) a favourite hang-out of Genoa's intellectuals…

  • Caffè San Carlo

    Turin

    Perhaps the most gilded of the gilded, this glittery cafe dates from 1822. You'll get neck-ache admiring the weighty chandelier and pay for the privilege …

  • Bistrot dei Sognatori

    Alba

    This nondescript corner bar packs in the ragazzi (guys) every night: perfect if you're done with fine dining and upmarket enoteche. Wine choices are still…

  • Bar Berto

    Genoa

    Piazza delle Erbe's sliver of bars is the place for Genoa's youth to enjoy an alfresco drink. The tables of various bars merge in the cobbled square, but…

  • La Drogheria

    Turin

    Occupying an old pharmacy, La Drogheria's vintage sofas are coveted by a laid-back, studenty crowd who enjoy drinks and a decent aperitivi selection…

  • Barz8

    Turin

    This side of the river attracts an older crowd who escape the Po-side madness and come for expertly made cocktails. Outside tables in summer have…

  • Cafe' Du Centre

    San Remo

    A lively if sophisticated bar once you've had enough seaside fun for the day. Friendly staff, excellent wines and great aperitivo snacks draw the locals.