Restaurants in Trieste
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Caffè Tommaseo
Is it just the hallucinogenic effects of the cappuccino or did you just see James Joyce over there scribbling in a notebook, or Sigmund Freud twitching behind a newspaper, or Umberto Saba polishing off a prosciutto panini ? Virtually unchanged since its 1830 opening, the belle époque Tommaseo with its moulded ceiling and Viennese mirrors is full of literary ghosts that often play tricks with the tired, delusional or over-caffeinated.
reviewed
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Mascalzone Latino
Just arrived from down south and been flummoxed by all that bratwurst and beer? Fear not, Napoli’s never far away. Run by native Neapolitans, this colourful old town palazzo replicates the spirit of Campania right down to the decorative lines of washing strung up from the rafters. At table level it’s all about pizzas, pasta and paper cones full of chunky chips.
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Circus
A rather quirky hangout for sometimes over-serious Trieste, Circus lives up to its colourful name with a vaguely big-top decor mixed with old-time movie paraphernalia. It’s a great lunch stop with its ample panini (€4 to €5), huge bowls of salad (€5) and a selection of nicely priced primi (first courses). The atmosphere’s cool but not haughty.
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Buffet Rudy
Come to Rudy for a lesson in Triestine gnocchi that is nothing like the familiar pasta-covered potato balls you get in Rome or Turin. Resembling a big dumpling made from potato or bread (you choose), these Friulian classics are served in a tangy goulash sauce. Cancel that dessert.
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Antica Trattoria Suban
In the family since 1865, Suban is a Trieste legend that acts as a kind of regional kitchen in microcosm. Don’t miss the jota soup, succulent meats and delicious Hungarian desserts. It’s pricey and outside the centre, but sometimes you’ve just got to say, ‘what the…?’
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Buffet da Siora Rosa
Opened before WWII by Mrs Rosa Caltaruzza – a portrait of whom still graces the wall – the family-run Siora Rosa is still one of the best and most traditional of Trieste’s buffets. Sit at the bar to sample sausages, sauerkraut and other Germanic offerings, or pasta.
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Buffet da Pepi
One of Trieste’s signature buffets, Da Pepi has been concocting traditional boiled meats, cold cuts and beer since – oh – 1897. All kinds of pork joints are produced here, served up with sauerkraut, hot mustard and kren (a tangy horseradish).
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Le Barettine
Just sitting at one of the deep timber tables awakens an appetite. The feel is that of a big rustic kitchen, in which you might be served spaghetti con la bottarga (a fish-egg sauce), followed by fresh fish filet with asparagus.
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Gelateria Zampolli
For the city’s best gelati served by impossibly slim ragazze, hit Zampolli. There is another branch at Viale XX Settembre 25a.
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Buffet al Spaceto
Locals gather here for a few glasses of local wine and delicious little snacks, including tiny panini with various fillings.
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Trattoria al Nuovo Antico Pavone
Fresh fish in many forms, along with regulation pasta, adorn the menu at this cosy harbour-front trattoria.
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Buffet da Mario
Fried squid, and sardines; Trieste is by the sea just in case you’d forgotten.
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La Bomboniera
This is a historic pastry shop – one of many that grace the city.
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