Restaurants in Friuli Venezia Giulia
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Caffè Tommaseo
Is it just the hallucinogenic effects of the cappuccino or did you just see James Joyce over there scribbling in a notebook, or Sigmund Freud twitching behind a newspaper, or Umberto Saba polishing off a prosciutto panini ? Virtually unchanged since its 1830 opening, the belle époque Tommaseo with its moulded ceiling and Viennese mirrors is full of literary ghosts that often play tricks with the tired, delusional or over-caffeinated.
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Mascalzone Latino
Just arrived from down south and been flummoxed by all that bratwurst and beer? Fear not, Napoli’s never far away. Run by native Neapolitans, this colourful old town palazzo replicates the spirit of Campania right down to the decorative lines of washing strung up from the rafters. At table level it’s all about pizzas, pasta and paper cones full of chunky chips.
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Circus
A rather quirky hangout for sometimes over-serious Trieste, Circus lives up to its colourful name with a vaguely big-top decor mixed with old-time movie paraphernalia. It’s a great lunch stop with its ample panini (€4 to €5), huge bowls of salad (€5) and a selection of nicely priced primi (first courses). The atmosphere’s cool but not haughty.
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Trattoria agli Amici
It is worth making the trek out of central Udine to this classic of traditional and creative cooking, which the Scarello family has run successfully since 1887. Try the ravioli di formaggi di malga, trippe ed ortaggi croccanti (a cheese-filled dumping with tripe and crispy vegetables). The tasting menu is tempting.
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Trattoria Blanch
Set among fields, this wonderful country-house trattoria with a leafy garden is located 1km north of the centre of Mossa (a village 5km west of Gorizia and known as a centre of asparagus production). It has been in the same family since 1904, and specialises (in season) in game and mushrooms.
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Buffet Rudy
Come to Rudy for a lesson in Triestine gnocchi that is nothing like the familiar pasta-covered potato balls you get in Rome or Turin. Resembling a big dumpling made from potato or bread (you choose), these Friulian classics are served in a tangy goulash sauce. Cancel that dessert.
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Antica Trattoria Suban
In the family since 1865, Suban is a Trieste legend that acts as a kind of regional kitchen in microcosm. Don’t miss the jota soup, succulent meats and delicious Hungarian desserts. It’s pricey and outside the centre, but sometimes you’ve just got to say, ‘what the…?’
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Buffet da Siora Rosa
Opened before WWII by Mrs Rosa Caltaruzza – a portrait of whom still graces the wall – the family-run Siora Rosa is still one of the best and most traditional of Trieste’s buffets. Sit at the bar to sample sausages, sauerkraut and other Germanic offerings, or pasta.
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Buffet da Pepi
One of Trieste’s signature buffets, Da Pepi has been concocting traditional boiled meats, cold cuts and beer since – oh – 1897. All kinds of pork joints are produced here, served up with sauerkraut, hot mustard and kren (a tangy horseradish).
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Ristorante Tre Corone
The old town is a tranquil haven away from the trendy beach and this eating escape fits the bill amid the intimate piazzas and pots of geraniums. Try the pizza and pasta standards or choose something more adventurous from the blackboard specials.
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Le Barettine
Just sitting at one of the deep timber tables awakens an appetite. The feel is that of a big rustic kitchen, in which you might be served spaghetti con la bottarga (a fish-egg sauce), followed by fresh fish filet with asparagus.
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Trattoria ai Frati
A delightful old-style eatery on a cobbled cul-de-sac and with tiny timber tables. Expect such local specialities as frico (a thick, succulent cheese-and-potato omelette), or tagliolini served with San Daniele ham.
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Al Cappello
Wine lovers should not miss this historic spot, where hundreds of tempting tipples are scribbled on the giant blackboard. Food is predominantly snacky, although with a few you could easily reach lunchtime saturation.
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Sbarco dei Pirati
Pots, pans, saws, clogs, saddles and other assorted knick-knacks hang from the walls and ceiling. Typical meaty Friulian fare fills the brief menu, popular with students and those on a student budget.
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Al Falegname
Dedicated carnivores in particular will appreciate this place, which specialises in beef, along with local sausages and big fat canerdeli, or bread gnocchi.
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Alla Ghiacciaia
Once an ice factory, this is a pleasing spot to eat local cuisine with a meaty bent, especially if you grab a table by the narrow, burbling canal.
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Gelateria Zampolli
For the city’s best gelati served by impossibly slim ragazze, hit Zampolli. There is another branch at Viale XX Settembre 25a.
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Buffet al Spaceto
Locals gather here for a few glasses of local wine and delicious little snacks, including tiny panini with various fillings.
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Trattoria al Nuovo Antico Pavone
Fresh fish in many forms, along with regulation pasta, adorn the menu at this cosy harbour-front trattoria.
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Buffet da Mario
Fried squid, and sardines; Trieste is by the sea just in case you’d forgotten.
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La Bomboniera
This is a historic pastry shop – one of many that grace the city.
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Ristorante La Torre
Behind the frescoes of the Palazzo Dipinto (Painted Mansion) lies the excellent Ristorante La Torre.
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Enoteca La Torre
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