The Armenian Club is almost a one-off in Tehran. Because it’s a Christian establishment, women can legally eat or just hang out sans hejab, and if you can get your hands on something harder than Fanta, it’s fine to BYO and drink it with your meal (sorry, no advice on where to find it). The barbecued sturgeon (IR100,000) and beef stroganoff (IR50,000) are both winners, and the range of kababs goes all the way to ‘Mexican’. The club doesn’t advertise its existence – look for a yellow awning and a tiny buzzer – but welcomes guests. Note that Muslims (at the government’s direction) cannot enter.