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Akbar Mashti Bastani
Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as 'the most famous ice cream in Iran and the world'. Try the pistachio bastani and you'll probably agree. It's next to Bank Melli, about 150m east of Tajrish Sq.
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Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop
Way up in north Tehran the Ananda is a gem if you're a vegetarian, and delightful even if you're not. Run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians, there's no chance of finding rogue bits of meat here and the food is both delicious and cheap. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne and Ananda calzone, the freshly made salad (no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting. Come by taxi and ask for Pasdaran PTT - it's just next door.
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Armenian Club
The Armenian Club is almost a one-off in Tehran. Because it's a Christian establishment, women can legally eat or just hang out sans hejab , and if you can get your hands on something harder than Fanta, it's fine to BYO and drink it with your meal (sorry, no advice on where to find it). The barbecued sturgeon and beef stroganoff are both winners, and the range of kababs goes all the way to 'Mexican'.
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Azari Traditional Teahouse
About 250m north of Rah-Ahan Sq, this restored 'coffeehouse' in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi and chicken kababsare rightly popular. A traditional band plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and bookings are recommended.
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Bistango
Arguably Tehran's best restaurant, Bistango's air of sophistication, refined service and relatively adventurous international cuisine keep Tehranis coming despite the wads of rial it costs them. For food, think honey Dijon salmon with garlic roasted potato and ratatouille.
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Bix
Bix calls itself a Californian/Italian pizzeria, and that's not far from the truth. The indoor/outdoor setting, well-trained waiters and limited menu of gourmet pizzas and well-presented pastas, salads and meat dishes draw plenty of north Tehran's young and well-heeled.
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Coffee Shop & Vegie Restaurant of Iranian Artists' Forum
This dedicated vegetarian restaurant is excellent value and a good place to meet young, educated and artistic Tehranis. It's in a brick building at the southern edge of Park-e Tehran, and has an informal, busy ambience with young people coming and going. Owner Aman promised there would be no mystery meat in the salads, sandwiches, pizzas or khoresht , among others.
Read more about Coffee Shop & Vegie Restaurant of Iranian Artists' Forum
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Ferdosi Sonnati
This popular place is especially busy at lunchtime, when its well-priced classic Persian dishes attract traffic from busy Imam Khomeini Sq.
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Ghaem Teahouse
Behind a curtain and up an unmarked stairwell on the southeastern corner of Tajrish Sq, this is an ideal if somewhat pricey place from which to watch the people and traffic carnage over tea, qalyan and dates. It also does the usual range of kababs.
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Gilac
The ambience, décor, music and food presentation at Gilac are more reminiscent of Europe than Iran. But the delicious food is wonderfully Caspian. It's a favourite of vegetarians, with the mirza ghasemi , borani bademjan and dokhtar-e luce ('spoilt girl') starters all delicious; in combination, they'd happily make a meal on their own. The fish and veal dishes are also excellent.
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Iranian Traditional Restaurant
This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, full of young Iranians flirting, smoking and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The dizi and kababs are reliably good and well-priced for this location, though at busy times you won't be allowed to linger. It's tucked away down an ornately tiled staircase, just east of the Canon/Konica shop.
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Istanbul-No Restaurant
Tucked away 20m down a lane near the Hotel Naderi, this hole-in-the-wall serves a surprising range of lunchtime dishes, with the usual kababs sharing space with huge pots of khoresht (any kind of meaty stew), ghorme sabzi (stewed beans, greens and mince) and mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg). Recommended particularly for budgeteers.
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Jaam-e Jam Food Court
You don't come here for the fast food, though the coffee isn't bad. You come to see the closest thing to a Western-style pick-up bar in Iran, complete with designer clothing and inches of make-up.
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Khaneh Azarbaijan
Khaneh Azarbaijan is one of four restuarants in Stone Park, but is the best value. Unfortunately, the other three seem to take pride in overcharging tourists. The park is worth a visit, but think about bringing a picnic lunch.
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Khayyam Traditional Restaurant
About 200m south of the Khayyam Metro station and opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque (look for the dome), this beautifully decorated restaurant is an oasis amid the chaos of the bazaar area. Originally part of the mosque, the 300-year-old building was separated when Khayyam St intervened. It was restored in 2002.
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Khosbin Restaurant
If you can't face another kabab - or are looking for some vegetarian (not vegan) fare - the no-frills Khosbin serves a refreshing range of Gilani food. Vegetarians should ask for the delicious mirza ghasemi or baghli (a broad bean dish), or perhaps the zeytoun parvardeh (olives marinated in pomegranate juice with crushed walnuts). There's no English sign; look for the red writing on the front window.
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Market
Part café, part gourmet sandwich shop, part delicatessen and salad farm, Market and its fare would be common in Western cities but is new to Tehran. The food is fresh and filling.
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Monsoon
Monsoon has been around for several years now and has a reputation for the best Asian food in Tehran. The fare ranges from Thai curries to sushi, served in an intimate setting and complemented by exceptional service. It's smart, sophisticated, relatively expensive and very new Tehran - menus only come in English.
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Sanaee Coffee Shop
Sanaee Coffee Shop makes and sells all manner of imported bean, and some of the richest and best chocolate milkshakes on Earth (you be the judge). Located around the corner from Ikea.
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Sofre Khane Sonnati Sangalag
If you're visiting the museums or Golestan Palace, this is the place to stop for lunch (or tea). The green setting in Park-e Shahr, coupled with the relatively quiet space embellished with antique photographs, set the tone. Dizi and the bademjan (eggplant) dishes are recommended. Musicians sometimes play in the afternoon.
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Sofre-Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo
This big, noisy subterranean restaurant is where Iranians go for a boisterous group meal. Waiters in traditional dress set the tone and the atmosphere is as enjoyable as the Iranian food. The fun is expensive by Tehran standards and gets more so after the traditional band starts.
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Sofreh Khane Ayyaran
This subterranean chaykhaneh makes an attractive escape from the fumes of Ferdosi Sq, though prices are aimed at tour groups (ie, high). However, the large Iranian menu has some hard-to-find dishes and a couple that you might not expect in your standard Tehran basement, such as 'Submissive'. Apparently it's eggplant, master.
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Sofrekhaneh Amol Mazandaran
Under the mosaferkhaneh of the same name, this underground place is the classic south Tehran local, with men eating cheap dizi , drinking tea and smoking qalyan. A genuine working-class Tehran experience.
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Taj Mahal
In the hotel of the same name, the Taj has a reputation for serving the best Indian food in Iran. The curries here are mouth-watering and there is a good range of vegetarian options. Pity about the location.
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Tandoor Restaurant
Under the Safir Hotel, the Tandoor has been popular in Tehran since before the revolution and is the most convenient place to the south to find a decent curry (when we ate, the lamb was far superior to the chicken), though if you want it hot, ask. There are a few vegetarian dishes.
