Welcome to the hidden world of Iran. Travel through this fascinating country to discover refined Islamic cities, colourful bazaars, ancient Persian ruins, fascinating nomads and shimmering deserts.
If you just want to hang out in the greenery, don’t want to spend IR30,000 for the privilege and want it to be within walking distance...
This is the tomb of Emir Ali, a nephew of Shah Cheragh who also died here while en route to Khorasan to help Imam Reza. The existing...
On the north side of Zand is the less touristy but still pleasingly proportioned Bazar-e Nou , built during the Qajar era.
One of three little places selling tea and qalyan on the side of the rocky slope above the Quran Gate. Panoramic city views at sunset.
For traditional Shirazi food, local prices and character, the Yavar is excellent. The eslamboli (rice and tomato) and khoresht bademjan...
Iranians have a saying that every home must have two things: first the Quran, then a collection of the works of Hafez. And in reality, many would reverse that order. Hafez the poet is an Iranian folk hero – loved, revered and as popular as many a modern pop star. Almost every Iranian can quote his work, bending it to whichever social or political persuasion they subscribe. And there is no better place to try to understand Hafez’s eternal hold on Iran than here at his tomb.
Set in a charming garden with two pools, the whole scene is restful despite the ever-present traffic noise. The marble tombstone, engraved with a long verse from the poet, was placed here by Karim Khan in 1773. In 1935 an octagonal pavilion was put up over it, supported by eight stone columns beneath a tiled dome. Plan to spend a couple of hours sitting in a discreet corner of the grounds, at sunset if possible, to watch the way Iranians react to what is, for many, a pilgrimage site.
You might see people performing the faal-e Hafez, a popular ritual in which you seek insight into your future by opening a volume of Hafez – the future is apparent in his words. After sunset, with the tomb floodlit and sung poetry piped over the public-address system, it is difficult not to feel transported back to the magic of ancient Persia. There’s a teahouse at the front of the garden where you can enjoy a tea, cheap bowl of ash (noodle soup) or faludeh (a frozen sorbet made with thin starch noodles and rosewater).
To get here from the centre of town you can walk (about 2km) or take a taxi dar baste (US$2.70).