Restaurants in Shiraz
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Yord Cultural Complex
In an enormous colourful yord (tent) about 8km northwest of town, this complex not only offers the chance to enjoy some fine Iranian-nomad food, but also to experience the Qashqa’i culture. The warm atmosphere, colourful costumes, live music and delicious food afford a dreamy escape from modern life into a Qashqa’i tented embrace. Yord is almost impossible to reach by public transport, so ask your hotel to write the name in Farsi and get a taxi (about IR25,000); it is also worth paying the taxi to wait for you (about IR70,000 total) as taxis out here are rare indeed.
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Seray-e Mehr Teahouse
This is a serendipitous place to find after wandering through the Bazar-e Vakil. Hidden away through a small door behind the Serai Mushir Bazar, the split-level teahouse has a small menu of tasty favourites (think dizi, kubideh, zereshk polo ) and a delightfully relaxed atmosphere in which to sit, sip tea and puff on qalyan.
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A
110 Hamburgers
The best, however, is this place to which Shirazis come like moths to a neon flame (two glowing palm trees). Their version of the shwarma, with meat sliced off a spit and shovelled into a bread roll with healthy bits like tomato and pickle (IR18,000), is good.
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Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant
Talk about atmosphere! The night we ate at the Sharzeh it was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock, with diners singing and clapping along with musicians playing traditional music in the centre of the two-level space. Great fun! The Iranian food was well-prepared, tasty and plentiful. It’s diagonally opposite the entrance to the Vakil Bazaar. There’s no English sign; look for the man in costume outside an arcade.
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Shater Abbas Restaurant 1
The low light, open kitchen, bustling staff and modern design touches create an atmosphere that is hugely popular with middle-class Shirazis. The menu mixes the classic range of kababs with some less familiar dishes – turkey kabab and mushroom steak, for example. Prices seem to have climbed with demand, sharply. Look for the flame torches outside.
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D
Yavar Restaurant
For traditional Shirazi food, local prices and character, the Yavar is excellent. The eslamboli (rice and tomato) and khoresht bademjan (eggplant stew) make a refreshing alternative to kababs (which it also has). There’s no English sign; look for Hossein riding a white horse across the front wall.
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E
Gavara Restaurant
The subterranean Gavara is an old-style local – an unpretentious, neon-lit hall divided into sections for men, and women and families. The menu is big and the food unsophisticated but very tasty; kababs, khoreshts, fish (sometimes) and a decent ghorme sabzi.
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F
Aroosh Khorshid
Convenient to the cheap accommodation, the Aroosh has plenty of old paraphernalia hanging about and the big space can have a decent atmosphere when it’s busy. The food is decent if unadventurous; check the bill carefully.
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G
Mahdi Faludeh
The most famous faludeh (IR3000 a cup) shop in Shiraz that does a good line in bastani, too. It’s opposite the Arg and beside the mosque entrance.
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H
Sarve Naz Restaurant
If you are staying at the Shiraz Eram Hotel, buffet breakfast in the Sarve Naz Restaurant is refreshingly varied, and the main meals here are also good.
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I
Haji Baba Restaurant
Not exactly atmospheric, but the food is delicious, location and opening hours convenient and prices reasonable.
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Soofi Traditional Restaurant 2
Beside the Setareh Fars shopping centre; popular with young, wealthy Shirazis; live music at night.
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J
Restaurant Hatam
No frills, soulless cheapie with a limited range of decent Iranian food.
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