Even if you’re only passing through to catch a morning ferry, it’s definitely worth staying in the Old Town rather than the New Town. That’s the only way to experience the full magic of one of Europe’s best-preserved historic towns. Room rates are considerably higher in both parts of the city than elsewhere in the Dodecanese and it’s essential to reserve ahead in summer. In winter, most budget options close altogether. Be warned, too, that most Old Town hotels are not accessible by taxi, so you may well have to haul your own luggage along the narrow cobbled lanes. Arrange to be picked up if possible.