Restaurants in Hania
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Waves on the Rock
The unassuming fishing hamlet of Ravdouha Beach, on the western side of the rugged Rodopou Peninsula, is one of the area's hidden gastronomic treats. Follow the signs to Ravdoucha until you reach a fork in the road. To the left, a rough dirt road leads 700m to the Waves on the Rock run by fisherman Theodoris Falelakis, who serves excellent fresh fish. If you really feel like getting away from it all there are also five rooms upstairs with kitchenette and air-con.
reviewed
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Thalassino Ageri
It can be tricky to find, but this solitary fish taverna in a tiny port amongst the ruins of Hania's old tanneries is one of the most delightful eateries in Crete. Apart from the superb setting they have fresh fish and excellent mezedes such as tender octopus in wine vinegar and melt-in-your-mouth calamari as well as a delicious fisherman's salad. Take a taxi or follow Venizelou around the coast turning left at Noel St as soon as you veer away from the coast.
reviewed
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Akrogiali
One of the best seafood restaurant in Hania, Akrogiali is on the beach side of the new town. The fish is fresh and the accompaniments are superb. The airy restaurant opens onto the seafront giving you a great view of the sunset.
reviewed
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Kafeneio
Just above the small square you'll probably see local black-clad gents under the mulberry tree of the old-style Kafeneio, where apart from the local myzithropita (cheese pie) with honey you can normally get a basic meal like local sausage, or on weekends traditional wild goat or lamb tsigariasto or vrasto (boiled), charged by the kilo. And lots of raki.
For a glimpse of traditional Sfakian village life, it is worth veering right off the main road to arrive at a small square flanked by four kafeneia and statues of local resistance heroes.
reviewed
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Kali Kardia Taverna
Kournas is a traditional village of white-washed houses, a few stone homes and a couple of kafeneia. You can get a delicious meal at the Kali Kardia Taverna on the main street. Owner Kostas Agapinakis is known for his award-winning sausages, excellent apaki (smoked pork) and meats cooked on the grill outside the taverna. If you are lucky you might get to try his delicious galaktoboureko (custard pastry) while it is still warm.
reviewed
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Apostolis I & II
In the quieter eastern harbour, this is a well-respected place for fresh fish and Cretan dishes in two separate buildings. Apostolis II is the more popular as the owner reigns there, but the other store has the same menu at marginally cheaper prices. Service is friendly and efficient, and there's a good wine list and harbour setting.
reviewed
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Ela
This 14th-century building was a soap factory, then a school, distillery and cheese-processing plant. Now Ela serves up a decent array of Cretan specialities, such as goat with artichokes, while musicians create a lively ambience. The tacky board outside tells you it's in every guidebook but the accolades are not undeserved.
reviewed
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I Sterna tou Bloumosifi
The old stone taverna I Sterna tou Bloumosifi has a pleasant courtyard garden and is widely known for its excellent Cretan cuisine. For starters try the gavro (mild anchovy) wrapped in vine leaves, or the garlic and herb mushrooms, and then move on to the hilopita (tagliatelle) with rooster.
reviewed
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Nykterida
This highly regarded establishment just outside town has been around since 1933 and was converted to the German club during WWII. It has been graced over the years by the likes of Churchill, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Papandreou and Anthony Quinn (who the owner's father taught how to dance for Zorba the Greek).
reviewed
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To Mati tis Limnis
There are a number of tavernas around the lake, but few of the older rent rooms above the tavernas were operating. The shady To Mati tis Limnis on the quieter end of the lake makes good traditional dishes such as rabbit stifado (braised with onions) or filling mizythropites (cheese pies).
reviewed
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Portes
Affable Susanna from Limerick cooks up Cretan treats with a difference at this superb restaurant in a quiet street in the Old Town. Try her divine marinated gavros (little fish), stuffed fish baked in paper, tasty meatballs with leak and tomato, or pretty much anything from the specials board.
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Pigadi tou Tourkou
Features from this former hammam, including the well it's named after (Well of the Turk), are incorporated into the cosy design of this popular restaurant, which has dishes inspired by Crete, Morocco and the Middle East. The service can, however, be indifferent and prices have crept up.
reviewed
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Porofarango
At the start of the Imbros Gorge, the friendly family taverna Porofarango has a big balcony with great panoramic views of the gorge and serves good-value Cretan cuisine and generous raki. The meat is usually its own and it often has wild goat. Try the special tsigariasto pork.
reviewed
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O Zaharias
This pleasant and well-respected eatery just off the main highway on the road to Falasarna has traditional dishes such as avgokolokytho - an egg dish made with zucchini, tomato and olive oil. The large Obelix and Asterix-inspired mural was painted by the owner.
reviewed
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Tamam
Housed in an old hammam, Tamam presents a superb selection of vegetarian specialities - try the spicy avocado dip on potato - and inspired dishes such as the Tas kebab veal with spices and yoghurt or the Beyendi chicken with creamy aubergine purée.
reviewed
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Iordanis Bougatsa
Continuing the business started by his great-grandfather in 1924, Iordanis churns out endless trays of delicious creamy bougatsa (filo pastry filled with myzithra cheese sprinkled with a little icing sugar). It's opposite the bus station.
reviewed
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Liakoto
Hang out at the understated Liakoto café-bar-cum-art-gallery which has a lovely terrace overlooking the mountains and sea. Next door, you can buy local raki, herbs, organic oil and other Cretan products at the Myrovolo Wine Store & General Store.
reviewed
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Doloma
This unpretentious restaurant tucked behind the harbour is half-hidden amid the vines and foliage surrounding the outdoor terrace. The traditional cooking is faultless. Pick from the various trays of mayirefta (casseroles and bakes) cooked daily.
reviewed
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Argentina
Considered one of the best fish tavernas in the area, the classic Argentina has tables on the main road and across the street overlooking the sea. It serves seafood dishes such as octopus with olives, quality fish and there is a select wine list.
reviewed
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Piperia
Right on the beach just before town, this is one of the best restaurants in Kalyves, with a great selection of Cretan specials and seafood. The menu includes dishes made from organic produce and oil, including an exceptional organic Greek salad.
reviewed
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Captain Fidias
One of three fish tavernas on Sfinari beach, this place is run by the amiable Fidias and his four strapping fishermen sons. When they run out they have been known to go home and get the fish destined for their dinner out of the fridge.
reviewed
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Andonis Theodorakis
Up on the main road to Platanos is Andonis' taverna and adjacent rooms. Food is all home-cooked, village style, and they serve local fresh fish. The chicken with okra is recommended. The simple homey rooms have lovely sea views.
reviewed
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Faka
This is another of those quiet, unassuming places that doesn't dish up bland tourist fare. The cuisine is solid and genuine. Good local choices include artichokes and broad beans. There's a children's menu and small playpen.
reviewed
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Arolithos
Near Andy's Rooms, Arolithos has an extensive selection of appetisers, traditional Greek dishes such as spetsofai (sausage and pepper stew), and some creative offerings such as the grilled chicken with orange sauce.
reviewed
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Paloma
Further along from Souda on the coastal road leading to the airport, this fish taverna with classic blue chairs and chequered tablecloths is right on the sea overlooking the port. It's a pleasant walk past the cemetery.
reviewed
