Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur

  • Le Café des Épices

    Marseille

    One of Marseille’s best chefs, Arnaud de Grammont, works thoughtfully with great produce and inventive flavours: think gurnard in chickpea broth with…

  • Bistro Canaille

    St-Tropez

    Probably the pick of the modern places to eat in town – creative, cosy and great value while still hitting the gourmet heights. It’s got the soul of a…

  • Les Chênes Verts

    Var

    On the road between Tourtour and the equally lovely Haut-Var village of Villecroze is a turn-off you might easily miss, unawares. Yet the 'The Green Oaks'…

  • Le Tilleul

    Côte d'Azur

    Considering its location on the remparts, this place could have easily plumbed the depths of a typical tourist trap. But it hasn’t. Instead, divine and…

  • Farinoman Fou

    Aix-en-Provence

    To appeal to bread connoisseurs, in Aix as in any part of France, you need to know your dough. Judging by the lines typically spilling out of this shop…

  • Le Sot l’y Laisse

    Côte d'Azur

    You won’t find a more authentic Provençal restaurant than this place, on the shady town square of Mouans-Sartoux, 4km northwest of Mougins. The signature…

  • Le Vivier

    Vaucluse

    You couldn't really dream up a more romantic setting than at 'The Fishpond', with riverside tables shaded by weeping willows and overhanging oaks. But…

  • Le Sanglier Paresseux

    The Luberon

    There’s one reason to make a detour to hilltop Caseneuve, 10km east of Saignon, and that’s to eat at the Lazy Boar, one of the Luberon’s most talked about…

  • La Pescalune

    Var

    Presiding over one of the region's top kitchens, Virginie Martinelli ensures the menu is tailored to the best of what is seasonally available. Expect…

  • Fleur de Sel

    Côte d'Azur

    Young couple Audrey and Thomas have built up a following with fresh, local produce treated in modern Provençal style. The bistro is housed in the town's…

  • Le Mazet du Vaccarès

    Camargue

    Shuddering along the low ribbed road past flamingos and Camargue ponies is totally worth it for the seafood at this legendary lakeside cabin. Memorabilia…

  • Bistrot Gourmand Clovis

    Côte d'Azur

    This bistro in the cobbled heart of Tourrettes is a stunner – for its stylish contemporary decor and its creative cuisine, honoured with a Michelin star…

  • Chez Palmyre

    Nice

    Look no further for authentic Niçois cooking than this packed, cramped, convivial little space in the heart of the old town. The menu is very meat-heavy,…

  • La Closerie

    The Luberon

    A renowned fine-dining establishment in Ansouis, overseen by chef Olivier and his wife Delphine. The food here is sophisticated but full of flavour and…

  • La Ferme Ste-Cécile

    Gorges du Verdon

    Just outside Moustiers, this wonderful ferme auberge (country inn) immerses you in the full Provençal dining experience, from the sun-splashed terrace and…

  • Le Gibolin

    Arles

    After spending three decades plying Paris with their passion for organic wines, owners Brigitte and Luc decided to head south and do the same for Arles…

  • L'Autruche

    Arles

    'The Ostrich', run by husband-and-wife team Fabien and Ouria, is a family restaurant in the best tradition. Market-fresh produce is assured, as is the…

  • L'Atelier Jean-Luc Pelé

    Antibes

    This branch of Jean-Luc Pelé's stellar Cannes bakery is a welcome addition to Antibes' lunch line-up. Gourmet bagels, wraps, soups, quiches and sandwiches…

  • La Rastègue

    Var

    Jérôme Masson rules over the kitchen; his wife, Patricia, over the dining room – and they sure do excel. La Rastègue has earned a Michelin star with its…

  • Restaurant La Litote

    Côte d'Azur

    In the heart of Vence's old town, La Litote is the very picture of a village bistro, with tables set out on the square and blackboard menus filled with…

  • Bistro du'O

    Vaucluse

    For fine dining in Vaison, this is everyone's tip. The setting is full of atmosphere, in a vaulted cellar in the medieval city (once the château stables),…

  • Le Clos des Vignes

    Var

    Seek out this farmhouse for the home-cooked cuisine (by husband Jean-Luc) and the warm welcome (by wife Dany). House-made foie gras features frequently,…

  • La Rossettisserie

    Nice

    Roast meat is the order of the day here: make your choice from beef, chicken, veal or lamb, and pair it with a choice of mashed or sautéed potatoes,…

  • La Petite Fontaine

    Var

    Locals travel from miles around to sit at a tree-shaded table on place de la République and feast on daube de boeuf (beef stew), forest mushrooms and…

  • La Telline

    Camargue

    A true local favourite, this isolated cottage restaurant with sage-green wooden shutters is one of the best places to sample genuine Camargue food. Summer…

  • La Ferme Girerd-Potin

    Parc National du Mercantour

    Five kilometres from Allos at an altitude of 1700m, this working farm is a wonderful spot to try true mountain food – all of it homegrown, farm-raised,…

  • Le Béal

    Var

    The Béal is the name of the 15th- to 16th-century canal that brought water 10km to Hyères, which still functions and can be seen at points around the old…

  • Chez Jo

    Var

    The ultimate summer seafood, suntan and socialisation shack, Chez Jo buzzes with tanned, barefoot beach-lovers, sipping Bandol whites and devouring the…

  • Le Petit Verdot

    Aix-en-Provence

    It’s all about hearty, honest dining here, with tabletops made out of old wine crates, and a lively chef-patron who runs the place with huge enthusiasm,…

  • PhilCat

    Cannes

    Phillipe and Catherine’s prefab cabin on the waterfront is a perfect lunch spot. This is fast-food, Cannes-style – giant salads, toasted panini and the…

  • La Maison Jouvaud

    Vaucluse

    If you suffer from a sweet tooth, it's best not to even step inside this patisserie palace, where the glass cases brim with tempting things – from…

  • Café Gaby

    The Luberon

    There's a strip of cafes on pretty place de l’Orneau, but Café Gaby is the town's beating heart and soul. It's busy throughout the day – from gentlemen…

  • Nacional

    Antibes

    'Beef & Wine' is the strapline of this contemporary wine-bar-styled space, so that should give you some idea of the focus here. It's popular for its…

  • Domaine de la Maurette

    Var

    For an authentic Provençal feast, head east out of La Motte along the D47 to this rustic wine estate on the intersection of the D47 and D25. Taste and buy…

  • L’Arôme

    The Luberon

    Lodged in a charming vaulted cellar in Bonnieux, L’Arôme is a pricey but prestigious address, run by well-respected chef Jean-Michel Pagès. The menu…

  • Le Verger des Papes

    Vaucluse

    A working vineyard as well as an excellent restaurant, this friendly domaine is a favourite tip for Châteauneuf aficionados. Dine on typical Provençal…

  • La Vague d’Or

    St-Tropez

    Triple-starred chef Arnaud Donckele has established a gastronomic temple at the Résidence de la Pinède: expect exquisite ingredients treated with the…

  • L' Eau a la Bouche exterior

    L' Eau a la Bouche

    Marseille

    You haven’t had pizza until you’ve eaten at chef Rodolphe Bodikian’s mouth-watering pizzeria. Scattering unusual ingredients – such as sobrasada (spicy…

  • Le Bar a Pain exterior

    Le Bar à Pain

    Marseille

    Selling arguably the best baguettes in the city, this charming organic bakery in the Chapitre neighbourhood also rustles together tasty midday snacks like…

  • Les Halles de la Major

    Les Halles de la Major

    Marseille

    This upscale food market inside the newly renovated vaults of La Major Cathedral is great for foodies, self-caterers and simple browsers. Each stall…