Restaurants in Provence
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La Chimère Café
Aix’s party crowd laps up the cabaret atmosphere of this former nightclub: starry-night vaulted ceiling in the underground room; grand chandeliers with crimson, velvety furnishings on the main floor. On the plate, the food is good, classic French. Come when you feel like donning heels and making a night of it.
reviewed
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Les Arcenaulx
Whet appetites with a meander around this cavernous former Louis XIV warehouse with antiquarian/contemporary bookshop and artist studios and galleries. Afterwards dine in grandiose style on sensational dishes evoking old Marseille or visit the neighbouring salon de thé (tearoom) for savoury tarts, cakes and ice cream.
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Le Formal
Chef Jean-Luc Le Formal is making a name for himself in France's foodie circles with his first-class establishment. Impeccably mannered staff serve delicious treats in the vaulted-cellar dining rooms.
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La Cantinetta
The top table at cours Julien serves perfectly al dente housemade pasta, paper-thin prosciutto, marinated vegetables, bresaola (air-dried beef) and risotto. Tables in the convivial dining room are cheek by jowl, and everyone seems to know each other. Or escape to the sun-dappled, tiled patio garden. If you're lucky, the gregarious chef-owner, Pierre-Antoine Denis, will regale you with the day's specials. Reservations essential.
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Le Sud du Haut
Marseille's bohemian patch of town is lined with restaurants offering a tantalising variety of French and ethnic cuisines. By far the stand-out Provençal cuisine of the area is found in this brightly-painted blue and yellow place with its eclectic interior and colourful, sky-topped terrace.
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L'Atelier
Consider this not a meal, but an 'artistic experience'. Every one of the seven or 13 edible works of art is a wondrous composition of flavours, colours and textures, and no two bites are the same. Sit back and revel in Jean-Luc Rabanel’s superbly crafted symphony of fresh organic tastes. No wonder this charismatic chef with his own veggie patch has two Michelin stars. Wine pairings are an adventure in themselves.
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Le Petit Verdot
Delicious menus are designed around what's in season and paired with excellent wines. Meats are often braised all day, vegetables are tender, stewed in delicious broths. Save room for an incandescent dessert. Lively dining occurs around tabletops made of wine crates (expect to talk to your neighbor), and the gregarious owner speaks multiple languages.
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Amphitryon
Run by fiery duo maître d’ Patrice Lesné and chef Bruno Ungaro, Amphitryon enjoys a solid reputation among Aix’s bourgeoisie, particularly in summer for its market-driven cooking and alfresco dining in the cloister-garden. Attached to it is the Comptoir de l’Amphi (mains €12-17).
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Chez Jeannot
With a magical setting overlooking the storybook Vallon des Auffes, this affable joint has fresh salads, pasta and shellfish, plus piping-hot pizzas. Fish is so-so.
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Lou Marques
Gastronomic treats at the Hôtel Jules César's sumptuous restaurant, within a former 17th-century Carmelite convent, include a fine variety of foie gras, a St-Jacques risotto with red Camargue rice, and a Grand Marnier soufflé served with cool chocolate sorbet.
reviewed
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Au Brin de Thym
Market-fresh produce is made to look like a work of art at this pretty place fronted by a lavender and white awning and damask-clothed tables. The Provençal menu is a great way to sample creative dishes laced in local olive oil, and there's a strong wine list.
reviewed
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Numéro 75
The chic dining room, in the former mansion of absinthe inventor Jules Pernod, is a fitting backdrop for stylized Mediterranean cooking. Menus change nightly, and only include three mains, but brevity guarantees freshness. On balmy nights, book the courtyard garden.
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L'Epuisette
The swankest restuarant (by far) has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. This is one of the most reliably consistent spot for real bouillabaisse.
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Le Mas
Celebrities’ photos line the walls at Marseille’s only late-night restaurant, ideal when you’ve lingered over cocktails. Portions are hearty, flavours rich.
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Chez Grand Mère
In the old town, this friendly place, characterised by colourful murals, serves French fare including frogs' legs and the like. If you missed out on bouillabaisse in Marseille, this is your chance to make up for it (minimum of two diners; order two days before).
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Charlotte
It’s all very cosy at Charlotte, where everyone knows everyone. French classics like veal escalope and beef steak fill the handwritten menu, and there are always a couple of imaginative plats du jour. In summer everything moves into the garden.
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Bistro Latin
Readers rave about this bistro and with good reason. Engaging and affordable (it's definitely worth booking ahead), Bistro Latin has extensive menu choices spanning cod, scampi risotto and a myriad of meat dishes cooked with saffron, spinach and cream.
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Pizzaria Chez Étienne
This old Marseillais haunt has the best pizza in town as well as succulent pavé de boeuf (beef steak) and scrumptious supions frits (pan-fried squid with garlic and parsley). As it's a convivial meeting-point for the neighbourhood, pop in to reserve (there’s no phone). No credit cards.
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La Tomate Verte
The house speciality at this apple-green bistro is green-tomato tart, a tangy-delicious lead to the Provençal comfort food, simple as roast lamb with rosemary and garlic. Tile floors mean noise; if that matters, choose a table in the side dining room.
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Thym, Te Voilà
Earthy, market-driven menus at this colour-splashed bistro, where the Euro-centric cooking reflects the seasons. Tables outside cosy to a pretty, sun-dappled square.
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Le Marmiton
Le Marmiton, the onsite formal restaurant of Hôtel La Mirande, offers cooking classes (from €80) and a twice-weekly chef’s table (reservations essential); afternoon tea is served (albeit slowly) in the glittering lobby.
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La Mule Blanche
Jazz plays inside, but the hottest tables at this soulful bistro are on the pavement terrace.
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La Cure Gourmande
Don't leave Avignon without trying a papaline d'Avignon, a pink chocolate ball of potent Mont Ventoux herbal liqueur that packs a punch; it's available from speciality sweet shops around town such as La Cure Gourmande.
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Chez Fonfon
Overlooking the quaint fishing harbour of Vallon des Auffes from an apricot-hued dining room, this third-generation-run peach of a place also specialises in poisson à l'argile (fresh clay-cooked fish, flavoured with aniseed).
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Le Caveau du Théâtre
Swing over to the south of the square for mellow, moody jazz and a monthly changing carte (menu) of traditional southern French fare with extra zip, such as butter-fried fish in a curry paste with sun-dried tomatoes.
reviewed