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Ardamone
Avocado and salmon sushi, green chicken curry with fragrant rice, and tofu and carrots marinaded in ginger are among the world-influenced dishes at Marseille's only bio resto (organic restaurant). A couple of vegan dishes are included on the strictly organic menu which also features scrumptious desserts such as chocolate and split-almond brownies and blueberry crumble with raspberry coulis.
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Au Bord de l'Eau
Promise you won't tell too many people about this little harbourside haven literally 'at the water's edge' of the Calanques. Chances are you can thank the fishing boats moored below the sundrenched terrace for catching the fish on your plate just hours before. Catch bus 83 along the coast to Av du Prado (by the statue of David), then take bus 19 further south along the coast.
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Chez Fonfon
Overlooking the quaint fishing harbour of Vallon des Auffes from an apricot-hued dining room, this third-generation-run peach of a place also specialises in poisson à l'argile (fresh clay-cooked fish, flavoured with aniseed).
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Chez Madie Les Galinettes
Decked out with colourful original pop art and mural panels, this très Marseille place produces an authentic bouillabaisse (you'll need to order before Mme Roux's expedition to the fish markets around ; so order the day before if you're headed here for lunch). Other stand-outs include the house specialty-prepared fish, Les Galinettes , marinated capsicums with anchovy tapenade; and chestnut ice cream.
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Garlic Market
Follow your nose to the Marseille garlic market, where strings of Provence's favourite bulb hang in their thousands.
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L'Épuisette
Chef Guillaume Sourrieu's culinary wizardry conjures up desserts such as pan-fried mango doused with balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with sherbet as well as a breathtaking bouillabaisse.
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La Baie des Singes
Stunningly located on a cape 15km south of the centre. Select your seafood prior to its preparation, and afterwards collapse on a comfy deck chair overlooking Île Maïre. From Les Goudes follow the signs to the Cap Croisette car park then walk 500m along the narrow path through rocks. Ask when booking about getting here by boat.
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La Fabrique
The concrete bar and loungy retro vibe is a magnet for hipsters, as is the Mediterranean menu.
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Le Bistro à Vin
Fronted by a scrubbed claret-coloured wooden façade and filled with timber tables, this rustic beamed-ceiling wine bistro has some top drops, accompanied by Provençal fare like tapenade, an assiette garrigue (a mix of warm goat cheese, dried ham, fresh figs and melon), and a mouthwatering selection of artisanal cheeses.
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Le Café Parisien
Le Café Parisien's sculpted plaster walls have been a theatrical backdrop for Marseillais diners for over a century. The brasserie's once-faded glamour has recently been restored to its former heyday splendour, serving elegant fare such as squid drizzled in olive oil and a richer-than-rich risotto. Post- repas, play boules on the café's indoor pitch downstairs, or have a pastis at the adjacent underground bar.
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Le Ciné 28
Get over your hangovers with a vitamin fix of fresh-squeezed fruit-juice - try the watermelon - or fruit salad at this bright, breezy place overlooking the port.
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Le Dock de Suez
Le Panier's western fringe flows into the commercial port area (metro Joliette, 8e), where dining spots at the London-docks-like complex, Les Docks, include the voluminous Le Dock de Suez. Business high flyers rub shoulders as chef Richard Tucita greases the wheeling and dealing with sophisticated dishes such as supions à la Provençale (squid with garlic and tomatoes) and braised ox cheek.
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Le Femina
East from the Vieux Port towards cours Julien, Le Femina is a great and eminently affordable traditional Algerian place for couscous. This dish has been cooked to perfection by five generations of the same welcoming family since 1921.
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Le Mas
Its name might mean Provençal farmhouse, but this little late-night place is snugly at home amid the urban tumult. Lining its walls are photographs of the stars, show-biz types and other insomniac artists who dine here on fab French/Provençal fare. Wine's included in menu prices.
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Le Miramar
Dine on Marseille's celebrated dish in style, beneath glowing burgundy wall-mounted lamps in the dining rooms, or on a burgundy velveteen settee at the white-clothed tables elegantly arranged on the quai-side terrace. This is the place locals herald as having the best bouillabaisse anywhere in the city centre.
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Le Pain Quotidien
Locals tuck into eggs for breakfast along with their daily bio (organic) bread, smothered in finger-licking chocolate spread.
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Le Petit Nice-Passédat
Maestro Gerald Passédat creates twin-Michelin-starred seafood- and meat-based masterpieces inspired by the slow southern tempo - and by Nénette the turtle, who has roamed Le Petit Nice-Passédat's terrace for over 30 years. For more on accommodation here, see .
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Le Rhul
This stalwart has been brewing bouillabaisse for over half a century. The views of the sea, and cuisine from it, are indubitable. And the welcome? Well, two out of three ain't bad.
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Le Souk
Enhanced by exotic décor of orange-and-red mosaic walls, wrought-iron furniture, and tiny tea-light candles, Le Souk is an atmospheric place to savour a Moroccan tajine - a heaping slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew elegantly delivered in a conical covered earthenware dish that takes its name from the Greek teganon (frying pan).
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Le Sud du Haut
Marseille's bohemian patch of town is lined with restaurants offering a tantalising variety of French and ethnic cuisines. By far the stand-out Provençal cuisine of the area is found in this brightly-painted blue and yellow place with its eclectic interior and colourful, sky-topped terrace.
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Lemongrass
Spice up your Marseille dining experience at this refreshing place serving succulent Asian/French fusion creations such as peeled local lobsters in curry with tart Granny Smith apples, and coconut rice pudding in banana leaf.
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Les Arcenaulx
Wrapped around cours des Arcenaulx on the Vieux Port's left bank, this cavernous complex contains an antiquarian and contemporary bookshop with a specialist interest in gastronomy as well as a restaurant and salon de thé serving ice creams named after literary classics. Nothing finishes a meal like a double cone of Les Misérable .
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Lina's Sandwiches
Adjoining the Musée de la Mode, this spiffy home of the 'beautiful sandwich' sports cranberry, orange and mustard décor and stylish desserts such as lemon-meringue pie.
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O'Stop
With a tiny daytime terrace and just four two-person tables plus bar stools at night, O'Stop does fantastic sandwiches and simple regional specialities round-the-clock.
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Péron
This designer, truffle-coloured place set out over the sea is one of the premier destinations in Marseille for a no-holds-barred gastronomic extravaganza. Stunning views unfold over the Med - and your plate, with highlights including lobster risotto.






