Restaurants in Marseille
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Péron
Perched on the edge of the corniche, with magnificent views of the Château d’If, Péron is one of Marseille’s top tables. The seafood-heavy menu (think marinated tuna, scallops with lemon polenta) is phenomenal; book before dark to watch the sunset.
reviewed
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Pizzaria Étienne
This old Marseillais haunt has the best pizza in town as well as succulent pavé de boeuf (beef steak) and scrumptious supions frits (pan-fried squid with garlic and parsley), but it's not just the food that packs the place out. Because Pizzaria Étienne is a convivial meeting point for the entire neighbourhood, you'll need to pop in beforehand to reserve in person (there's no phone), though you will get a free aperitif while you wait for a table. Credit cards aren't accepted.
From rue de la République, cut down passage de Lorette and walk up the staircase.
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Le Café Parisien
Le Café Parisien's sculpted plaster walls have been a theatrical backdrop for Marseillais diners for over a century. The brasserie's once-faded glamour has recently been restored to its former heyday splendour, serving elegant fare such as squid drizzled in olive oil and a richer-than-rich risotto. Post-repas, play boules on the café's indoor pitch downstairs, or have a pastis at the adjacent underground bar.
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Le Dock de Suez
Le Panier's western fringe flows into the commercial port area (metro Joliette, 8e), where dining spots at the London-docks-like complex, Les Docks, include the voluminous Le Dock de Suez. Business high flyers rub shoulders as chef Richard Tucita greases the wheeling and dealing with sophisticated dishes such as supions à la Provençale (squid with garlic and tomatoes) and braised ox cheek.
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Ardamone
Avocado and salmon sushi, green chicken curry with fragrant rice, and tofu and carrots marinaded in ginger are among the world-influenced dishes at Marseille's only bio resto (organic restaurant). A couple of vegan dishes are included on the strictly organic menu which also features scrumptious desserts such as chocolate and split-almond brownies and blueberry crumble with raspberry coulis.
reviewed
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Au Bord de l'Eau
Au Bord de l'Eau (‘At the water's edge') is the kind of place Marseillais cherish: easy on the frills, heavy on outdoor space, steady on the price and artistic on the plate. The menus (fixed-price menus) have the usual pizza, pasta and fresh fish. Catch bus 83 along the coast to av du Prado (by the statue of David), then take bus 19 further south along the coast.
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Le Miramar
Dine on expensive seafood or bouillabaisse, beneath glowing burgundy wall-mounted lamps in the dining rooms, or on a burgundy velveteen settee at the white-clothed tables on the quai-side (quay-side) terrace. The chef runs cooking classes (€120) where he reveals his seafood secrets; see the tourist office for information and bookings.
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Le Bistro à Vin
Fronted by a scrubbed claret-coloured wooden façade and filled with timber tables, this rustic beamed-ceiling wine bistro has some top drops, accompanied by Provençal fare like tapenade, an assiette garrigue (a mix of warm goat cheese, dried ham, fresh figs and melon), and a mouthwatering selection of artisanal cheeses.
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La Baie des Singes
Stunningly located on a cape 15km south of the centre. Select your seafood prior to its preparation, and afterwards collapse on a comfy deck chair overlooking Île Maïre. From Les Goudes follow the signs to the Cap Croisette car park then walk 500m along the narrow path through rocks. Ask when booking about getting here by boat.
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La Cantine
Down-tempo beats, low lighting and wood-beamed ceilings set a sexy backdrop for Corsican specialities, including figatelli (coarse-ground robustly seasoned sausage); and earthy French dishes like sautéed veal liver en persillade (parsley, garlic and herbs) and grilled fish. Reservations advised.
reviewed
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Les Arcenaulx
Born out of the tumultuous arsenal's history, this cavernous complex contains an antiquarian and contemporary bookshop with a specialist interest in gastronomy, as well as a bookshelves-lined restaurant and salon de thé (tearoom) serving ice creams named after literary classics.
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La Cantinetta
The top table at cours Julien serves perfectly al dente housemade pasta, paper-thin prosciutto, marinated vegetables, bresaola (air-dried beef) and risotto. Tables in the convivial dining room are cheek by jowl; we prefer the sun-dappled, tiled-patio garden. Reservations essential.
reviewed
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Le Sud du Haut
Marseille's bohemian patch of town is lined with restaurants offering a tantalising variety of French and ethnic cuisines. By far the stand-out Provençal cuisine of the area is found in this brightly-painted blue and yellow place with its eclectic interior and colourful, sky-topped terrace.
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Chez Jeannot
An institution among Marseillais, the jovial rooftop terrace overlooking the port of Vallon des Auffes books days ahead (but you can usually score an inside table). Stick to thin-crust pizzas and supions, called ‘chippirons’ on the menu; seafood and meats are overpriced.
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L'Epuisette
The swankest (by far) has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. First courses cost €34 to €45 and desserts €20, though you’ll likely not have room. This is one of the most reliably consistent spot for real bouillabaisse.
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Le Mas
Celebrities’ photos line the walls at Marseille’s only late-night restaurant, ideal when you’ve lingered too long over cocktails. Portions are hearty, flavours rich. Standouts include steak au poivre and spaghetti with clams, but you really can’t go wrong.
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Pizzaria Chez Étienne
This classic family-style neighbourhood haunt serves the best wood-fired pizza in Marseille, succulent beef steak and scrumptious pan-fried squid. Pop in beforehand to reserve in person (there’s no phone). Skip the nothing-special pastas. No credit cards.
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Chez Madie Les Galinettes
The portside terrace is perfect on long summer evenings, but if weather isn’t cooperating, the interior’s modern art brings consolation. The Provençal-rooted menu features lots of fish and good bouillabaisse, you’ll need to order 48 hours ahead.
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Chez Fonfon
Overlooking the quaint fishing harbour of Vallon des Auffes from an apricot-hued dining room, this third-generation-run peach of a place also specialises in poisson à l'argile (fresh clay-cooked fish, flavoured with aniseed).
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Le Clan des Cigales
On Fridays this little café serves classic homemade aïoli (a traditional Provençal garlic mayonnaise) with cod, winkles, poached vegetables and hard-boiled eggs. Savoury tarts are great when wandering the Panier.
reviewed
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Lina's Sandwiches
Adjoining the Musée de la Mode, this spiffy home of the 'beautiful sandwich' sports cranberry, orange and mustard décor and stylish desserts such as lemon-meringue pie.
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Jardin des Vestiges
Our favourite budget choice draws on Armenian, Greek and Lebanese in dishes like kebabs, stuffed eggplant, moussaka and tabouleh. It’s ideal for to-go sandwiches (€4 to €6).
reviewed
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Le Ciné 28
Get over your hangovers with a vitamin fix of fresh-squeezed fruit-juice - try the watermelon - or fruit salad at this bright, breezy place overlooking the port.
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Restaurant Michel
Tops since 1946, this is one of the most reliably consistent spot for real bouillabaisse. Alas, the overly bright dining room lacks romance.
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Le Pain Quotidien
Locals tuck into eggs for breakfast along with their daily bio (organic) bread, smothered in finger-licking chocolate spread.
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