Restaurants in Aix En Provence
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Amphityron
Amphityron combines the talents of co-owners Patrice Lesné and Bruno Ungaro. Patrice masterfully oversees the sleek dining rooms of studded red banquettes and outdoor 15th-century cloister terrace; passionate chef Bruno visits the markets each morning for seasonal specialities, which might include 15 different types of tomatoes. The attached Comptoir de l'Amphi is an affordable alternative; and there's a piano where guests knock out a tune after a cognac or two.
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Bastide du Cours
In the beating heart of Aix, this café right on cours Mirabeau has a delightful interior garden where you can get a culinary taste of Provence with dishes such as slow-roasted lamb shank with wild thyme and locally grown tomatoes. It also has four richly adorned chambre d'hôte rooms with a visual taste of Provence's striped, flowered and checked fabrics. Rates jump about 30% in July.
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L'Aixquis
You'll be tempted to whip out your camera to photograph elaborately presented plats such as truffle-infused St-Jacques scallops at this small peach-coloured restaurant, which has a way of giving even the most humble vegetables panache. The carte (no menus) changes seasonally, but the magical minute chocolat noir (a tray of petite desserts) is a year-round fixture.
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Le Poivre d’Ane
Poivre d’Ane isn’t afraid to break ranks with culinary norms: fancy a haddock milkshake, duck sushi, or thyme-and-cinnamon apple tart with Baileys whipped cream? The 10-table dining room’s decor is austere, save for splashes of bold colour, reflecting the chef’s playfulness. In summer outdoor tables are smack dab on one of Aix’s loveliest pedestrian squares. Reservations essential.
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La Chimère Café
Aix’s party crowd laps up the cabaret atmosphere of this former nightclub: starry-night vaulted ceiling in the underground room; grand chandeliers with crimson, velvety furnishings on the main floor. On the plate, the food is good, classic French. Come when you feel like donning heels and making a night of it.
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Le Formal
Actually the namesake of its chef, Jean-Luc Le Formal, who's making a name for himself in France's foodie circles, this first-class establishment indeed has impeccably mannered service both at its whitewashed-stone lounge/reception area at street level and in its vaulted-cellar dining rooms.
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Le Petit Verdot
Wine is the primary focus at this earthy restaurant, where tabletops are made of cast-off wine crates. The meat-heavy menu is designed to marry with the wines, not the other way round. It’s fun when you’re feeling festive, but decibel levels are too high for a romantic night out.
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Amphitryon
Run by fiery duo maître d’ Patrice Lesné and chef Bruno Ungaro, Amphitryon enjoys a solid reputation among Aix’s bourgeoisie, particularly in summer for its market-driven cooking and alfresco dining in the cloister-garden. Attached to it is the Comptoir de l’Amphi (mains €12-17).
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Chez Grand Mère
In the old town, this friendly place, characterised by colourful murals, serves French fare including frogs' legs and the like. If you missed out on bouillabaisse in Marseille, this is your chance to make up for it (minimum of two diners; order two days before).
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Charlotte
Townspeople congregate like extended family at this bustling, cheek-by-jowl neighbourhood restaurant, which turns out simple home cooking, including terrines, homemade soups, grilled meat and savoury tarts, from its open kitchen. In summer, feast in the garden.
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Bistro Latin
Readers rave about this bistro and with good reason. Engaging and affordable (it's definitely worth booking ahead), Bistro Latin has extensive menu choices spanning cod, scampi risotto and a myriad of meat dishes cooked with saffron, spinach and cream.
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La Tomate Verte
The house speciality at this apple-green bistro is green-tomato tart, a tangy-delicious lead to the Provençal comfort food, simple as roast lamb with rosemary and garlic. Tile floors mean noise; if that matters, choose a table in the side dining room.
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Le Zinc d'Hugo
Outside this rustic bistro of stone walls and chunky wooden tables, a blackboard chalks up daily specials such as a terrine of foie gras with confit of vegetables, as well as highlights from its 80-strong wine list.
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Icône
The designer Italian/Mediterranean fare matches the designer boxlike teal armchairs and dark timber lining this glam place just off cours Mirabeau; with a stainless steel bar and DJ spinning electro lounge beats.
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Comptoir de l’Amphi
Attached to the Amphitryon is the Comptoir de l’Amph, which is less expensive.
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