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11e Art
A relative newbie on the contemporary dining scene, this hybrid lounge-bar-restaurant is a smart, chic affair with steely bar stools out front and sofa seating in an ultra-cool air-con interior.
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Aphrodite
The uninspired interior might be nothing to write home about (although the tomato plants growing in pots around the glassed-in terrace are a nice touch) but David Faure's food is. Dish names take up at least three lines on the menu, sauces are delicate, there's shoals of fish and hats off to the chef for his wholly vegetarian menu
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Atelier du Goût
His full name is Jouni Tormanen but everyone knows this overtly modern, 30-something Finnish chef, under the wing of Ducasse until branching out on his own, as Jouni. In southern France since 1993, the gastronomic dynamo impresses at his 'taste workshop', Atelier du Goût, with a simple choice (but still dead tricky to choose) of three starters, three mains and three desserts.
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Blue Beach
Much of the seashore is backed by beach restaurants offering predictable Mediterranean cuisine and the chance to dip between courses. Food at Blue Beach is a cut above the rest, plus it hosts free jamming sessions with musicians performing at the Nice Jazz Festival and interesting dinner conferences on Niçois history and culture in July.
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Boros
Don't tell anyone about this oriental épicerie (grocery) specialising in Greek, Lebanese, Turkish and Armenian delicacies that serves delicious lunches in the form of generous mixed platters.
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Chantecler
Inside Hôtel Négresco's Chantecler, chef Bruno Turbot cooks impeccably served classic French cuisine with flare. Crimson-coloured Chantecler may have lost one of its two Michelin stars (down the back of a Regency sofa?), but remains a mind-blowing extravaganza. Vegetarians get their own evening menu .
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Chez René Socca
Perfect for filling a hungry moment coming from the beach or any time of day are a bunch of battered local specialities, especially common in Vieux Nice, where Chez René Socca dole them out to a merrily munching, family-friendly, fun-loving crowd packed around shared bench seating on the street. Order drinks separately from a passing drinks waiter.
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Fenocchio
Dither too long over the 70-plus flavours of ice cream and sorbet at this unforgettable glacier and you'll never make it to the front of the queue. Eschew predictable favourites and indulge in a new taste sensation: black olive, tomato-basil, rhubarb, avocado, rosemary, calisson (almond biscuit frosted with icing sugar), lavender, ginger, or liquorice.
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Festival de la Moule
A couple of touristy places on cours Saleya serve impressive seafood platters, while you can feast on as many moules (mussels) as you can eat at unpretentious, cheerful Festival de la Moule.
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Fleur de Café
Ice-cream cocktails, infusions, a dizzying choice of freshly squeezed fruit juices and delicious homemade cakes are the trademarks of this sweet café, strung around a small boutique selling nice stuff for the kitchen and home.
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Food Market
Buy fruit, veg, olives, oil and candied fruits at the heaving open-air food market wedged between the sea and the old town. Nearby, rue du Collet and its continuation, rue Pairolière, are lined with cheese shops, bakeries, tripe shop and more.
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Grand Café de Turin
For mountains of fresh-from-the-sea, no-frills shellfish served in an authentic 1900 interior or outside beneath the awning, hit Grand Café de Turin. And yes, the fishmonger opening oysters like there's no tomorrow does do that all day long. Don't miss the sea urchins in season (September to April).
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Henri Auer Confiserie
Crystallised fruit based on family recipes dating to 1820 from Henri Auer Confiserie.
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Indyana
Refined and elegant, Indyana lures a dressy set into its lair to nibble on minimalist Asian (sashimi and tempura) and other world cuisines. Pigeon breast in the company of a peachy peach chutney tickled our tastebuds.
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Juice Bar
For unusual freshly squeezed juices and soya milk or yoghurt smoothies, hit the Juice Bar.
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Karr
Hugely popular for lunch with working 30-somethings, this spacious contemporary eating space with crowded street terrace is just the ticket for dining with a difference: think mussel soup, warm oven-baked goat's cheese with honey and almonds, lobster risotto or veal escalope with a stuffed artichoke (in season).
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Kei's Passion
He might only be 26 years old but Japanese hot shot Keisuke Matsushima, alias Kei, makes heads turn at Kei's Passion, a minimalist space dedicated to gastronomy and crowned with a shiny Michelin star within a year of its opening. Cuisine is overwhelmingly Mediterranean (lots of Italian influence in there) with a subtle dash of the Orient, while the wine cellar, notably, is predominantly organic.
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L'Adresse
Tucked away on an itty bitty Vieux Nice laneway but well worth looking up, L'Adresse dishes up an array of globe-trotting specialties, from tapas to fondue, in low-lit, cosy surrounds.
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L'Escalinada
Little has changed at this enchanting old-town auberge (think red-and-white checked tablecloths) for decades: all the old Niçois favourites are cooked up here alongside a clutch of more adventurous specialities, pig nose salad and breaded sheep testicles (sweet breads) included. Get here early to snag a table on its candlelit street terrace. No credit cards.
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La Banane
This hidden little bolt hole in the old town is a chic spot for a drink or a Grand Marnier-flambéed crêpe or croque banane (grilled banana sandwich that is much more elegant than it sounds).
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La Cantine de Lulu
Lulu - Lucien Brych - is the name behind this illustrious bistro where local specialities and all the great French classics are eaten with vigour by an appreciative, regular crowd. Friday is aïoli, stockfish and bouillabaisse (order in advance)day. Lulu's Canteen is small; arrive on the dot.
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La Merenda
Infamous for having no phone, no credit cards, and (obviously) no phone reservations (but beloved nonetheless), you'll need to try for a reservation in person for Le Merenda's regional comfort food such as stockfish, a local specialty soaked for days in running water to triple its size, then simmered with onions, tomatoes, garlic, black and green olives, bell peppers, olive oil and potatoes.
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La Petite Maison
A sterling reputation props up this ode to contemporary Niçois cuisine, framed in a stylish clean-cut interior with concrete floor, potted olive trees, crisp white tablecloths and art on the walls. Whet your appetite with a shared plate of five/seven Niçois starters, followed by a locally caught red mullet perhaps or fried snails.
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La Réserve
Jouni Tormanen landed his first Michelin star in 2006 and in early 2007 he breathed new life into Nice's legendary La Réserve a belle époque building (built in 1876 as a hotel) at the port. Interior décor is pure Art Deco and the contemporary space combines gourmet restaurant with ground-floor lounge and rooftop bar. Watch this space.
