Restaurants in The Southern Highlands
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Tiestos
Though a hair on the pricey side, one reader claimed they're the best steaks in Ecuador. Formerly known as Las Brasas de San Juan, this grill house is lovely, the owners are friendly and you definitely get what you pay for. Pizzas and pastas too.
reviewed
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Café Eucalyptus
The irreverent Eucalyptus menu proudly declares that it doesn’t serve ‘customs officials, crazy bus drivers, or airline executives.’ For the rest of us, dozens of Cuban, Vietnamese, Spanish and other reliably delicious international dishes are served at cozy tables near roaring fireplaces, and an extensive variety of wines and beers flow from the gorgeous bar. This wonderful restaurant should cure any gringo’s hankering for home, and, thankfully, it still serves guidebook writers.
reviewed
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Moliendo Café
From Ecuador’s neighbors to the north, the hearty arepas (maize pancake) are a specialty here. Topped with anything from beans and cheese to slow-cooked pork, they go well with cold beer or a strong Juan Valdez. Whether you get a little or a lot, it’s essentially old-fashioned comfort food, Colombian-style.
reviewed
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El Maíz
Billing itself as purveyor of the ‘new Ecuadorian cuisine,’ El Maíz takes traditional ingredients like quinoa and chochos (marinated lupine beans) and turns them into modern and delicious fusion dishes. This restaurant feels more upmarket than its prices suggest.
reviewed
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La Barraca
Casual atmosphere and great music complement excellent snacks (guacamole and chips, popcorn and the like), which all make perfect bedmates with an ice-cold beer. The 'international' main courses, however, leave plenty to be desired.
reviewed
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Tutto Freddo
Across from the main plaza, this is likely the best (and definitely the most popular) spot in town for a mammoth banana split or a towering milkshake. And the upstairs booths are great.
reviewed
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Café Austria
Every caffeinated drink known to humankind, dainty Austrian cakes, pressed sandwiches and goulash make for a great menu at this Austrian-owned café. English-language newspapers are always available.
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Guajibamba
This atmospheric restaurant has a small menu of traditional plates like seco de chivo (goat stew) and gourmet fritada (fried pork with hominy, avocado and other garnishes). It’s also one of the best places to try cuy (roast guinea pig); if you’re game, call an hour before you go for prep time ($17 for two).
reviewed
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Zoe
This new, stylish restaurant, bar and gallery has laid modish decor over a colonial-style house. The food is also a hybrid, cooking up traditional meat and seafood dishes with some newer, imported techniques. For all this hipness, the service is pleasantly down to earth.
reviewed
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Tres Estrellas
Long in the business, Tres Estrellas roasts up gourmet cuy (roast guinea pig, $17, serves two). If you’re not up for that squeaky delicacy, there’s outstanding grilled beef, chicken and pork on the menu too.
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Salon Lolita
North of downtown, this is the place for traditional food from Loja. The cecina (salty fried pork served with yuca) is classic, and roasted cuy (guinea pig) comes in $8, $10 or $12 sizes.
reviewed
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El Tamal Lojano
The almuerzos (set lunches) are good, but the real reason to come is for the delicious quimbolitos, humitas, empanadas de verde and tamales lojanos. Try them all!
reviewed
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A lo Mero Mero
The Mexican menu here has bulging burritos (great for vegetarians) and hearty enchiladas served in a friendly and colorful dining room. The guacamole is good, but the salsa is 100% Ecuadorian (not spicy).
reviewed
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Piccolo Italia
This new pizzeria and bistro next to Craig’s Book Exchange has an extensive menu that’s more Venice than Vilcabamba. It serves all the traditional Italian pizzas and pastas, plus a couple of unusual ones.
reviewed
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Layseca’s Belgian Chocolatier
Owned by a Belgian-Ecuadorian couple, this little café has delicious homemade chocolate, cookies, cakes, and bread and the town’s best coffee and espresso. The bags of granola make great hiking snacks.
reviewed
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Pavi Pollo
There are numerous grilled-chicken joints along Alonso de Mercadillo, west of Bolívar, where you can pick up a quarter-chicken with soup and fries for about around US$2. Pavi Pollo is a good one.
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Good Affinity
This oddly named Taiwanese cafeteria is the king of soy, gluten and all things vegetarian. Almuerzos ($2) include a filling soup, entrée, and dessert. Outdoor seating is available.
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Monday Blue
The festive Mexican atmosphere is more Cancún than Cuenca, but it's undeniably fun wolfing down sandwiches, Mexican food, shawarmas and pizza in this restaurant-cum-bar.
reviewed
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Mar y Cuba
Despite its name, this local chain serves excellent Ecuadorian seafood and superclean Peruvian ceviche, which unlike most ceviche, is actually raw (kind of like South American sushi).
reviewed
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Los Capulies
Los Capulies serves delicious, reasonably priced, traditional Ecuadorian meals and livens things up with entertainment on weekends. The cantina out back provides after-dinner fun.
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Alivinatu
Health-food nuts and vegetarians will find the juice bar and soy-meat sandwiches with greens a breath of fresh air. It also sells unusual teas and nutritious snacks to go.
reviewed
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El Cafetería Jhuly
The wait for a table at Jhuly’s is worth it. All the great southern Ecuadorian treats are prepared before your eyes at this Cuenca classic. It’s deelish for breakfast.
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Diego's
Formal waiters, faded wallpaper and a casual clientele make this Loja classic a rather surreal place. Plates include garlic chicken, pastas, lasagna and filet mignon.
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Aguacolla Café
You're best off trying the artificial rock-climbing cave before you fill your belly with a vegetarian almuerzo. Think peace, love and organics.
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