Introducing Reserva Indígena Boruca
The picturesque valley of the Río Grande de Térraba is the setting for this reserve for the Brunka indigenous peoples (also called Boruca). Historians believe that the present-day Brunka have evolved out of several different indigenous groups, including the Coto, Quepos, Turrucaca, Burucac and Abubaes, whose territories stretched all the way to the Península de Osa in pre-Columbian times. These days, the Brunka population is centered in the small villages of Rey Curré, which is bisected by the Carratera Interamericana, and Boruca, 8km north.
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The Brunka are celebrated craftspeople, and their traditional art plays a leading role in the survival of indigenous culture. The tribe is most famous for its ornate masks, carved from balsa or cedar, and sometimes colored with natural dyes and acrylics. These elaborate creations are used in the annual Fiesta de los Diablitos. Brunka women also use pre-Columbian back-strap looms to weave colorful, natural cotton bags, placemats and other textiles. While most people make their living from agriculture, some indigenous people have begun producing these fine handicrafts for sale to tourists.
Rey Curré (usually just ‘Curré’ on maps) is about 30km south of Buenos Aires, right on the Interamericana. Drivers can stop to visit a small cooperative (9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat) that sells handicrafts. In Boruca, local artisans post signs outside their homes advertising their handmade balsa masks and woven bags. Exhibits are sometimes on display in the museo, a thatch-roof rancho 100m west of the pulpería.
Other than a few artisans selling their handiwork, these towns hardly cater to tourists. In fact, at first glance, they’re hard to differentiate from any typical Tico village. For a more in-depth understanding of the Brunka culture and lifestyle, make arrangements for a longer-term homestay. In any case, always be particularly sensitive when visiting indigenous communities. Dress modestly and avoid photographing people without asking permission.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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