Golfito

Introducing Golfito

Formerly a bustling banana port, Golfito retains the same rough-around-the-edges and slightly sketchy atmosphere that beleaguers many port cities. It serves primarily as a departure point for tourists passing through to the beach resorts to the north or south. Attracted by the fish-filled waters of the Golfo Dulce, sportfishers also dock their vessels here, while they catch up on their beer drinking and tale-telling.

This fading town is slowly being reclaimed by the jungle behind it. Covering the steep slopes surrounding Golfito, the little visited Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Golfito provides a picturesque backdrop and inviting retreat, harboring many species of flora and fauna. Tellingly, Warner Brothers chose Golfito as the site to film Chico Mendes, the true story of a Brazilian rubber tapper’s efforts to preserve the rain forest. One of the few remnants of the movie set is an old steam locomotive that graces the park.

From 1938 to 1985, Golfito was the headquarters of United Fruit’s operations in the southern part of Costa Rica, but in the 1980s, declining markets, rising taxes, worker unrest and banana diseases forced its departure. Some of the plantations now produce African palm oil, but it has not alleviated the economic hardship caused by United Fruit’s departure.

In an attempt to boost the region’s economy, the federal government built a duty-free facility (déposito libre) in the northern part of Golfito. This surreal shopping center attracts Ticos from around the country, who descend on the otherwise dying town for 24-hour shopping sprees. The duty-free shopping is for Costa Rica residents only, so you can put away your credit card. Indeed, the primary impact on foreign tourists is that tax-free shoppers are required to spend the night in Golfito, so hotel rooms can be in short supply on weekends and during holiday periods.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009