Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve

Introducing Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve

Just inside Sìchuān’s northern border lies Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve (Jiǔzhàigōu Zìrán Bǎohùqū; Nine Village Gully; www.jiuzhai.com; adult/student Y220/170; 7am-6pm), a national park and UN World Biosphere Reserve. Sure, everyone moans about the heart-stopping ticket cost, the hassle of travelling here and the ‘too many tourists’ syndrome. All true enough, but go anyway – you’ll never forget a visit to this national treasure.

Start with bluer-than-blue lakes and rushing waterfalls, add in deep green trees backed by snowy mountains, then lace with kilometres of well-maintained walking trails, and you’ll begin to get a feel for Jiǔzhàigōu’s charms. The best time to visit is September through November, when you’re most likely to have clear skies and (particularly in October) blazing autumn colours to contrast with the turquoise lakes. Summer is the busiest but rainiest time. Spring can be cold but still pleasant, and winter, if you’re prepared for frigid temperatures, brings dramatic ice-coated trees and frozen-in-place waterfalls (as well as lower prices).

Jiǔzhàigōu means ‘Nine Village Gully’ and refers to the region’s nine Amdo Tibetan villages, whose residents number about 1000. According to legend, Jiǔzhàigōu was created when a jealous devil caused the goddess Wunosemo to drop her magic mirror, a present from her lover the warlord god Dage. The mirror dropped to the ground and shattered into 118 shimmering turquoise lakes.

Those pools of eye candy are what lie within your dreams after you leave, along with the snow-crusted mountain peaks, and forests and meadows, home to protected takins, golden monkeys and pandas.

The park is pristine, but resort-style hotels leading up to the park entrance have 20, 000 beds. More than 1.5 million people visit the park every year. Shuttle buses whiz through the park with alarming regularity, and jams of people can pile up at the most popular sites.

Yet despite its drawbacks, Jiǔzhàigōu is still a remarkable gem, and worth a splurge of yuán and time.

Last updated: Jun 10, 2010