Shopping in Brussels
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Tierenteyn-Verlent
Ghent’s traditional mustard-maker, the 1790-established Tierenteyn-Verlent, has occupied this heritage-listed shop since 1860, and it retains its original interior of tall glass cabinets of apothecary and spice jars behind varnished timber counters. Mustard is still made using original techniques and only natural ingredients: vinegar, salt and ground mustard seeds. Each jar comes with its own little wooden spoon (plastic spoons can also be used, but not metal, as it separates the vinegar).
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Galerie d'Ixelles
The most interesting of the Upper Town arcades is the tiny Galerie d'Ixelles. Although not far from Ave Louise, this gallery and its continuation, Galerie de la Porte de Namur, are culturally a world away, located in the Matonge quarter, home to Brussels' Congolese community. Mainstays here include pint-sized shops selling African cloth, Kinshasa's latest CD imports and hairdressing salons with names like 'Dream Hair' or 'The New Image of Black Men'.
reviewed
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2BE
Occupying a 15th-century Gothic mansion, this sleek emporium stocks a tantalising array of artisan chocolates, wines, jenevers, conserves, sweets, biscuits and other 100% Belgian goodies including a superb selection of beers, such as the local Brugse Zot, which you can try at the canalside café. Ask staff to fill you in on the escapades of the resident ghost of Perez de Malvenda, the former Spanish mayor whose house this mansion once was.
reviewed
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Gare du Midi Market
Said to be the biggest market in Europe, this sprawl of colourful stalls next to the railway lines has an international flavour, with exotic North African and Mediterranean spices, cheeses, meats, clothing, leather goods and everything else under the sun. Its food stands, selling bites like Moroccan crêpes with cheese, honey and vegetables along with mint tea, are a favourite with clubbers winding down from Saturday night.
reviewed
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Stadsfeestzaal
The 19th-century neoclassical architecture of this former city festival hall is jaw-dropping, particularly when viewed from the champagne-glass-shaped platform rising beneath its glass roof. The historic building was gutted by fire in 2001, and reopened in late 2007 as an ultra-upmarket shopping mall extending from the Meir south to Hopland, but the luxe boutiques are a bonus – the restored building is the real star.
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Crush Wine
Brussels is too self-respecting to have a Fosters-spouting Aussie-theme bar, but international enough to have this wondrous cellar stocking over 190 Australian wines (the most comprehensive selection in Europe). Look out for rare drops from Tasmania and deliberate over dozens of Margaret River reds. There are daily tastings and tapas and regular wine events; call ahead for its schedule of Saturday openings.
reviewed
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Temmerman
Glass jars filled with sweets line up behind the counter of this old-fashioned sweet shop, which has been in its current location since 1904, and is run by the eighth generation of this family of confectioners. All of its sweets are made by the family’s factory, including typically Belgian neuzekes (hard, triangular cherry-red ‘noses’ filled with soft jelly) and mokke (aniseed biscuits).
reviewed
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Galerie de la Porte de Namur
The continuation of Galerie d'Ixelles is Galerie de la Porte de Namur. Although not far from Ave Louise, this gallery and tiny Galerie d'Ixelles are located in the Matonge quarter, home to Brussels' Congolese community. Mainstays here include pint-sized shops selling African cloth, Kinshasa's latest CD imports and hairdressing salons with names like 'Dream Hair' or 'The New Image of Black Men'.
reviewed
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E
Galeries St-Hubert
Opened in 1847, Europe’s first-ever covered shopping gallery comprises three connecting arcades beneath its vaulted glass roof: Galerie du Roi, Galerie de la Reine and the smaller, perpendicular Galerie des Princes. Between them, the arcades contain a cinema, theatre, cafés and some wonderful shops selling chocolate, books and music, fashion and accessories (including Belgian Delvaux handbags).
reviewed
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Pierre Marcolini
Brussels-born Marcolini is the wunderkind of Belgian chocolate-makers, whose pralines include melt-in-your-mouth ganaches (cream-filled chocolate) made from exotic teas. Other Marcolini innovations include quirky bunny-eared Easter eggs. Make your selection from the glass counter then head to the back room to pick up your order. There’s talk of a tea room opening soon upstairs.
reviewed
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Chocolate Line
Bruges has 50 chocolate shops, but just five where chocolates are handmade on the premises. Of those, the Chocolate Line is the brightest and best. Wildly experimental flavours by ‘shock-o-latier’ Dominique Persoone include bitter Coca-Cola, and black olive, tomato and basil; it also sells pots of chocolate body-paint (complete with a brush). Opening hours fluctuate.
reviewed
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De Vagant Slijterij
After settling on your favourite flavour of jenever in the bar of the same name, head across the street to this slijterij (liquor shop) stocking more than 200 varieties. Its line-up of bottles of all shapes, colours and sizes resemble an old-fashioned pharmacy, reflecting jenever’s original medicinal purpose.
reviewed
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Excellence
One for the cineastes - this has to be one of the best DVD stores in the world, with an enormous selection of art house, independent, classic and foreign films from all over the globe, including works by Belgian filmmakers such as Chantal Ackerman and the Dardenne brothers. Just make sure the subtitles are in your language of choice.
reviewed
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Christa Reniers
The arresting window displays of Christa Reniers, Belgium's best jewellery designer, will singlehandedly lure you into her store. Once inside, you're going to have a hard time deciding between her splendid contemporary jewellery - often crafted with sterling silver into organic forms embellished with gems - and her bold ceramics.
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Stijl
Brussels’ top fashion showroom not only has labels by Belgian icons like Antwerp Sixers Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, but also emerging new designers like Cathy Pill, whose atelier is just around the corner. Climb the wooden staircase at the back to the 1st floor to hunt for end-of-season bargains.
reviewed
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Sjapoo
Milliner Ria Dewilde’s atelier is out the back of her boutique (north of Vrijdagmarkt), where she sells her one-off creations. Many are crafted along 1920s lines for everyday wear, as well as more elaborate hats for weddings and christenings. Ria also sells hand-picked Belgian- and French-design clothing.
reviewed
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City 2
This modern shopping mall has all the usual chain-store suspects, but it’s a good bet for electronic gear from FNAC, which also sells events tickets. In the mall’s basement you’ll find a post office, and a better-than-average food court – try Ganesh for fantastic Indian samosas, curries and naan breads.
reviewed
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Inno
Belgium's only home-grown department store has two locations - this one, and one in Ave Louise, Upper Town (ph 02 513 84 94). The ground floor is devoted to perfume and cosmetic counters, with haberdashry and clothing being well-represented on other floors. There's also a hairdresser for a quick trim.
reviewed
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Christophe Coppens
Coppens’ head-turning creations have a dramatic flair, reflecting the fact that this Flemish milliner originally trained as a theatre designer and actor. This is his main womens’ hat store; ask the helpful staff if you’re looking for his men’s, bridal or racing carnival headwear.
reviewed
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Véronique Branquinho
Véronique Branquinho’s classic tailoring for men and women has confirmed her reputation as one of the new generations of fashion academy graduates to pick up the baton and run with it. Black features heavily in her collections, with occasional splashes of silver and gold.
reviewed
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Olivier Strelli
Congo-born Strelli is to Belgium what Georgio Armani is to Italy – an internationally renowned designer creating tailored men’s and women’s fashion that transitions seamlessly from the boardroom to cocktail parties and beyond. This light-filled boutique is Strelli’s HQ.
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Grasshopper
This enormous two-storey toy shop has everything a child could possibly covet: from classics such as cuddly bears, kaleidoscopes and colourful old-fashioned wooden toys to challenging educational toys and games that are ideal for keeping them occupied while travelling.
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Martin Margiela
Margiela is often tagged the unofficial seventh member of the Antwerp Six (he graduated from Antwerp’s fashion academy in 1980). Shoes, accessories, men’s and women’s body-skimming fashions in understated colours are artfully arranged in this white-on-white boutique.
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Planète Chocolat
You can catch praline-making demonstrations every Saturday at 4pm (€7) at this experimental chocolate shop famed for its chocolate floral ‘bouquets’ and other innovative shapes. If the weather’s behaving you can sip hot chocolate on the tearoom’s outdoor terrace.
reviewed
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Nicolas Woit
Vintage fabrics found at flea markets and Barbie dolls from the ‘50s and ‘60s (such as the perma-tanned Hawaiian Barbie on display) are the inspiration for the fashions of this Brussels-born designer, who trained with Issey Miyake and Thierry Mugler in Paris.
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