Restaurants in Salta
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A
Patio de la Empanada
It’s a toss-up between Salta and Tucumán for Argentina’s best empanadas, but they’re wickedly toothsome in both places. Locals debate the merits of fried (in an iron skillet – juicier) or baked (in a clay oven – tastier). Numerous places specialize in them, including the peñas. The taxi drivers’ favorite is Patio de la Empanada, where various stalls surround an indoor-outdoor eating area; a dozen will set you back AR$15.
reviewed
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B
Café del Tiempo
Decked out to resemble a Buenos Aires cafe, this has prices to match but offers a stylish terrace in the heart of the Balcarce zone; a top spot for a drink. There’s some sort of performance or live music every night. Most of the dishes – including international offerings such as chop suey, sushi and ceviche – are designed to share, and the picadas (shared appetizer plates) are great for a group.
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C
José Balcarce
Exposed stone walls, ambient music and solicitous service set the scene for a satisfying gourmet dining experience here. Starters like llama carpaccio could be followed by sea bass with passionfruit and ginger, or other highland-type dishes involving lamb or trout. The wine list sees each grape variety described in human terms – merlot is a sensitive listener, with gay tendencies. Close to Salta’s best.
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D
El Solar del Convento
Warmly decorated and popular, this reliable touristy choice offers solicitous service – the free apéritif wins points – and a varied menu. It specializes in lomo (sirloin) with tasty sauces, and also has fish dishes and parrillada (mixed grill including steak) options. The wine list offers lots of (priced-up) provincial choices.
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E
Viejo Jack
Far enough out of the tourist zone to be authentic, but not so far it’s a pain in the backside to get to, this is a down-to-earth spot very popular with locals for its parrillada and pasta. The serves are huge – designed for two – but you’ll get a single portion (still a big slab of meat) for 70% of the price.
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F
New Time Café
In the race for the accolade of Salta’s best plaza cafe, this two-level corner spot wins by several lengths. It offers shady (in the afternoon) tables, great views of the cabildo, Cerro San Bernardo and cathedral, and wi-fi. It also serves coffee and food, though it isn’t the cheapest. Live music some nights.
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G
La Leñita
This popular parrilla hits meaty heights on what is a hit-and-miss dining street. There’s fine carne (meat), with a wide range of cuts, and solicitous service whether you’re in a suit or singlet. The versatile staff serenade diners with Salta folklore halfway through dinner.
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H
La Céfira
This handsomely styled dining room a few blocks south of the center is a cut far above the usual gnocchi-with-four-cheese-sauce joints. Delicious homemade pasta includes such temptations as squid-ink ravioli with crab, or spinach fettuccini with salmon and caper sauce. Tasty salads seal the deal.
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I
Jovi II
A long terrace overlooking the palms of Plaza Güemes is just one reason to like this popular local restaurant that does a huge range of dishes well, without frills and in generous portions. Several rabbit dishes, tasty fish and a succulent plate of the day are backed up by excellent service.
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J
Entre Indyas
This intimate little spot transcends its shopping-arcade location with tasty vegetarian cuisine, blending Indian and Peruvian traditions. There’s no menu as such, just three or four daily specials, which might include shitake ceviche, stirfried vegetable chapatis, or quinoa and corn salads.
reviewed
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Portezuelo Restaurant
On a sunny day there's no better place to be than on the balcony of this restaurant in the Portezuelo Hotel, enjoying some of the best views in Salta. The food is well prepared, with welcome Mediterranean touches such as sun-dried tomatoes and calamari salad, and the service is excellent.
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K
El Beduino [CLOSED]
Authentic and delicious Lebanese food is here for the taking at bargain prices in this simple restaurant. Piquant tabouleh salad, exquisite kebbe nayeh (marinated raw mince), homemade pita, and creamy hummus; excellent. Dancers shake their bellies on weekend evenings.
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L
La Casa de Güemes
This central historic house was once occupied by Güemes, a salteño (resident of Salta) independence hero who looms large in gaucho and folklore culture hereabouts. Decent, fairly priced food – with some worthwhile lunch specials – and good local music.
reviewed
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La Casona del Molino
This former mansion, about 20 blocks west of Plaza 9 de Julio, is a Salta classic that goes sinfully late at weekends. It has several spacious rooms, each with different performers who work around the tables rather than on a stage.
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M
Mercado Central
This large, lively market is very interesting, as well as one of the cheapest places to eat in town. You can supplement inexpensive pizza, empanadas and humitas (stuffed corn dough) with fresh fruit and vegetables.
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N
Bio’s Diet
This mostly vegetarian little restaurant mostly functions as a take-out, but has a few simple wooden tables. Daily dishes are displayed at the glass counter.
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