Restaurants in Northwest Argentina
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Los Puestos
Though a little touristy – we can’t guarantee you won’t be treated to a rendition of ‘Sounds of Silence’ on the panpipes at lunchtime – this makes up ground with its decor of local stone and chunky wood. Tasty regional specialties feature heavily – barbecued llama (AR$24) is one – but it’s small touches, such as tiny bread rolls straight from the clay oven, that win friends.
reviewed
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El Arrabal
One of the few old-style restaurants in Nueva Córdoba (OK, so it may be a reconstruction…), this place serves slightly pricey, imaginative regional and house specialties. It packs out for tango classes (AR$15) at 7pm nightly and the dinner tango show (AR$25) at 11pm Thursday to Saturday. Make a reservation.
reviewed
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El Rancho de Ferrito
Seven blocks from the plaza, this inviting local restaurant is worth every step. You’ve seen the menu before – except for house specialties such as cazuela de gallina (chicken stew: yum), and local wines – but the quality, price and atmosphere make it truly excellent.
reviewed
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La Nieta ‘e La Pancha
Wonderful staff prepares and serves a changing menu of delectable regional specialties, creative pastas and house recipes. Be sure to save room for dessert. Check out the lovely upstairs terrace, which catches breezes and gives ample people-watching ops on the street below.
reviewed
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Fon Restaurante
The lunchtime buffet at this vegetarian restaurant has mostly Chinese dishes, with a few local favorites such as ensalada rusa (Russian salad) and empanadas thrown in. It’s not gourmet, but it does the job.
reviewed
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Las Rías de Galicia
An upscale Spanish restaurant with the best value set lunch in town. Going à la carte gets you all sorts of goodies, including some excellent seafood selections.
reviewed
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Patio de la Empanada
It’s a toss-up between Salta and Tucumán for Argentina’s best empanadas, but they’re wickedly toothsome in both places. Locals debate the merits of fried (in an iron skillet – juicier) or baked (in a clay oven – tastier). Numerous places specialize in them, including the peñas. The taxi drivers’ favorite is Patio de la Empanada, where various stalls surround an indoor-outdoor eating area; a dozen will set you back AR$15.
reviewed
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La Posta
Just the sort of place you wouldn’t expect Chilecito to have, and here it is – an intimate, stylish restaurant warmly decorated and lined with shelves of deli products on sale. The dishes are innovative (stewed goat with torrontés, for example) and attractively presented. The taste doesn’t quite live up to the service or decor, but it’s pretty good, especially the empanadas cooked on the parrilla.
reviewed
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Café del Tiempo
Decked out to resemble a Buenos Aires cafe, this has prices to match but offers a stylish terrace in the heart of the Balcarce zone; a top spot for a drink. There’s some sort of performance or live music every night. Most of the dishes – including international offerings such as chop suey, sushi and ceviche – are designed to share, and the picadas (shared appetizer plates) are great for a group.
reviewed
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José Balcarce
Exposed stone walls, ambient music and solicitous service set the scene for a satisfying gourmet dining experience here. Starters like llama carpaccio could be followed by sea bass with passionfruit and ginger, or other highland-type dishes involving lamb or trout. The wine list sees each grape variety described in human terms – merlot is a sensitive listener, with gay tendencies. Close to Salta’s best.
reviewed
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La Leñita
One of the best parrilla restaurants around in this part of the world, this wins few points for interior design (who thought the sports bar look was a good idea?), but stands out for service and the sheer quality of the meat. Try picanha (rump steak) or the delicious mollejitas (sweetbreads). Sit strategically to avoid the air-con’s arctic wind.
reviewed
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Krysys
The best parrilla (steak restaurant) option is this central, upscale place offering all your barbecued favorites in a relaxed atmosphere. But there’s plenty more on the menu, with a range of tasty sauces to go with your choice of chicken, pork or beef, and various appetizing avocado starters. Prices are fair, and you’ll get the meat the way you want it cooked.
reviewed
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Don Pepito
It looks touristy, the level of service varies, and it charges too much for extras, but the meat is truly excellent. Bypass the set parrillada (for one/two AR$23/45) and order off the menu. Kidneys, bife de chorizo or chivito (goat) are all fine choices and are served in generous portions. There’s often live entertainment (AR$2 extra).
reviewed
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Zorba
This is one of those hybrid places that always look good on paper but rarely work. Yet this one does. Big breakfasts (check out the Americano); an upmarket atmosphere for coffee or late drinks; and a hodge-podge of a menu featuring standard minutas (short orders or snacks), pastas and a few surprisingly tasty Greek dishes blend seamlessly into one.
reviewed
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Salsa Criolla
On Plaza 25 de Mayo, this bright and solicitous spot offers a high-class all-you-can-eat parrillada. It doesn’t try to cynically stuff you with chorizo first like in some places – rather, it insists on tempting you with high-quality cuts long after you’ve insisted you don’t want any more. The salad bar (AR$20 on its own) isn’t so inspired, though.
reviewed
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Mía Mamma
Set back from Plaza Libertad, this is a discreet and reliable restaurant with well-dressed waiters who see to your every need. There’s a fine salad bar with plenty of vegetables (AR$18, or AR$11 with a main) and a wide choice of food that includes enormous parrilla options as well as a tasty arroz a la valenciana (similar to paella).
reviewed
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El Solar del Convento
Warmly decorated and popular, this reliable touristy choice offers solicitous service – the free apéritif wins points – and a varied menu. It specializes in lomo (sirloin) with tasty sauces, and also has fish dishes and parrillada (mixed grill including steak) options. The wine list offers lots of (priced-up) provincial choices.
reviewed
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El Rancho
A cut above the string of hit-and-miss places around the plaza, this has a short, simple menu, including locro and some good chicken dishes. It’s owned by a bodega, so competition wines are overpriced. It appeals on winter nights, with a crackling fire, and the nights when a blind guitarist plays unobtrusive folklórica.
reviewed
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La Vieja Casona
Cheerfully lit and decorated, this is a cracking place with a great range of regional specialties, creative house choices and a long menu of standard Argentine dishes – the parrillada here is of excellent standard. There’s a fair selection of La Rioja wines, too, and wonderful smells wafting from the busy kitchen.
reviewed
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Viejo Jack
Far enough out of the tourist zone to be authentic, but not so far it’s a pain in the backside to get to, this is a down-to-earth spot very popular with locals for its parrillada and pasta. The serves are huge – designed for two – but you’ll get a single portion (still a big slab of meat) for 70% of the price.
reviewed
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Peña El Cardón
This historical and traditional peña gives a good idea of what these places were like before they started putting on touristy shows. There are regular cultural events, a pretty patio and delicious empanadas. Live folklore music on Fridays and Saturdays starts about 10pm, goes very late and gets rowdy.
reviewed
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New Time Café
In the race for the accolade of Salta’s best plaza cafe, this two-level corner spot wins by several lengths. It offers shady (in the afternoon) tables, great views of the cabildo, Cerro San Bernardo and cathedral, and wi-fi. It also serves coffee and food, though it isn’t the cheapest. Live music some nights.
reviewed
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Chester
Everyone likes the booths, polished brass and dark wood of a British-style pub, but it doesn’t transmit quite the same coziness when the bar is the size of a tractor warehouse. Nevertheless, this place is popular and offers decent-quality but very overpriced meals and drinks. It gets busy and lively on Friday nights.
reviewed
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Setimio
Wall-to-wall wine bottles decorate this smart wine shop and restaurant, whose short menu features a pair of posh salads, chicken stirfry, crusted salmon and other toothsome delights. Several wines are available by the glass, and you can pick any of the several hundred bottles from the shelves for a AR$6 corkage fee.
reviewed
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La Casa
This attractive conversion of stately house to restaurant also has streetside seating. It has many different interesting wines (you can also buy to takeout) and, as well as fairly-priced parrilla offerings, has more imaginative specials like pork on a bed of mustard mash, sundried tomatoes and spinach.
reviewed
