January 12, 2020

Visiting Transylvania: 10 things to know

BY LARA BRUNT

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Transylvania is known as the mysterious land of bloodthirsty vampires and howling wolves. Some may think it’s fictional, but this central Romanian region is a real place. And it’s pretty special.

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The real Dracula lived here

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Bram Stoker’s 1897 vampire novel was inspired by the real-life exploits of Vlad Dracula, a local 15th-century nobleman, who was fond of spearing his enemies.

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Not all locals are happy with his bloodthirsty reputation. Vlad Dracula, or Vlad Ţepeş (the Impaler), is even considered a hero in some parts of Transylvania.

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The Romanian tourism board recently announced plans to develop ‘vampire tourism’ using European funds, after years of opposition from locals.

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A visit here is like stepping back in time

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Travelling around Transylvania, described as ‘the last truly medieval landscape in Europe’, feels like you’ve gone back 100 years.

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Horse-drawn carts rumble along dirt roads, while shepherds tend their flocks and villagers make hay in the sunshine.

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Keep your romantic notions in check, though. This also means poor infrastructure, such as potholed roads and slow trains, so you’ll need a bit of patience.

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The Saxons made their mark

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German merchants arrived here in the 12th century. Over the next few centuries, they built seven fortress towns, known as the Siebenbürgen, and hundreds of fortified churches.

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Must-see spots include the pastel-hued city of Sighișoara and the churches of Biertan and Viscri, all Unesco World Heritage Sites.

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It has the world’s most amazing road

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The Transfăgărășan Road was built as a military route in the 1970s on dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu's order, it winds up and over the towering Făgărăș Mountains.

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The road zigzags up a barren valley to Lake Bâlea and through a 900m-long tunnel, before continuing down through the forests of Wallachia region.

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The road is usually only open from late June until early October, due to heavy snow. And when it is open, it can get pretty busy.

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It boasts resort towns famous for therapeutic waters

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The mineral mud and warm salty waters of Bear Lake in Sovata are rumoured to cure infertility, while the saline waters of Ocna Sibiului are said to be good for arthritis.

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Feeling brave? Head to Covasna for a mofette, a ‘sauna’ of post-volcanic gases, mainly carbon dioxide and a dash of eggy sulphur, thought to benefit cardiovascular conditions.

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It's great for bear spotting

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The surrounding Carpathian Mountains are home to wolves, lynx and Europe’s largest population of brown bears.

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One of the best places to observe bears in the wild with a ranger, includes the popular Stramba Valley hide north of Zărnesti.

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Not so keen to meet one in the wild? The Libearty Bear Sanctuary near Brașov cares for more than 70 bears rescued from cages and circuses.

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It's home to many castles, including the famous Bran

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Bran Castle is the region's most famous stronghold and looks straight off the pages of your favourite vampire novel. But the 14th-century pile near Braşov isn't the real home of Vlad Dracula.

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His real digs were at Poienari Citadel in Wallachia. Now a ruin, it’s difficult to visit by public transport and only diehard Vlad fans typically brave the journey.

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For a more fairytale experience, the mountain resort of Sinaia is home to Peleş Castle, which was built for King Carol I in 1875 as his summer retreat. It's easily accessible by bus or train.

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Palincă is the local tipple

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Transylvanians like to start a meal with a slug of palincă, a fiery brandy traditionally made from plums. At around 45% proof, the double-distilled drink packs a punch.

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It’s served at room temperature and downed in one with a hearty Noroc! (‘cheers’ in Romanian) or Egészségére! (in Hungarian).

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Prince Charles is a big fan

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The Prince of Wales has been a regular visitor to Transylvania since 1998. He's involved in conservation of rural villages and has bought and restored a handful of farmhouses.

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Visitors can even rent some of these guesthouses in the villages of Viscri and Zalánpatak.

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A Hungarian phrasebook comes in handy

GET THE PHRASEBOOK
GET THE PHRASEBOOK

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Even though Transylvania is in Romania, Hungarian is the default language in eastern Transylvania.

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That’s because the region had been associated with Hungary for over a thousand years, right up until the end of WWI.

Thanks for reading.

To learn more about Transylvania, where to eat, stay, and see, hit the button below.

CHECK OUT TRANSYLVANIA
CHECK OUT TRANSYLVANIA