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Introducing Blaenau Ffestiniog
Slate was the basis of Snowdonia’s wealth in the 19th century. Most of the slate used to keep English houses dry came from Wales, and most of that came either from the quarries of Bethesda or the mines of Blaenau Ffestiniog. However, only about 10% of mined slate is usable, so for every ton that goes to the factory, nine tons are left as rubble.
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Despite being in the very centre of Snowdonia National Park, the grey mountains of mine waste that surround Blaenau Ffestiniog prevented it from being officially included in the park – a slap in the face for this impoverished town, in the days before Wales’ industrial sites were recognised as part of its heritage.
Today, although slate mining continues on a small scale, Blaenau (blay-nye) struggles to survive as a tourist town, selling the history of the slate industry and of the Ffestiniog Railway (which has its northern terminus here). The town has a deeply mournful feel about it and an amazing sparsity of any worthwhile sleeping and eating options. If you’re not interested in slate or rail heritage, then frankly there’s little here to distract you.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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