Of late, parts of Chinatown have received an injection of hipness, no more so than at Central Plaza , conceived as an unabashedly kitschy walking mall. Outposts of contemporary cool like Munky King designer toys and the Mountain Bar mix it up with incense-scented import bazaars, an endearing wishing well and the kookily noir Hop Louie restaurant and bar in a five-tiered pagoda. Across Hill St, the galleries and studios along Chung King Rd bring out art students and aficionados in droves on opening nights.