Many people feel grateful when the holiday tsunami, which engulfs the rest of Crimea in summer, throws them on this quiet shore. A decidedly untouristy town of ramshackle low-rise buildings, Kerch is the place to chill out and dream of new frontiers. Looming across a narrow strait, the Russian coast invites for a Eurasian adventure. Unfortunately, only visa-holders can embark on it straight away.
Stuck out on a 100km limb from Feodosiya, Kerch is one of Ukraine's oldest cities. As the ancient Greek colony of Panticapaeum, it was the capital of the Bosporan Kingdom from the 5th to 2nd centuries BC. Nowadays, Kerch is a mecca for archaeologists, who arrive in droves each year, hoping to unearth Greek and Scythian treasures.