Here is where we laid the foundations of our republic.
Grand words, but then, like Amasya, Sivas is assured a place in Turkish hearts thanks to the role it played in the run-up to the War of Independence, when the halls of the Congress building resounded with plans, strategies and principles as Atatürk and his adherents discussed their great goal of liberation.
Now that the days of struggle are over, though, you get the impression Sivas isn’t quite sure what to do with itself. Modernity has been embraced wholesale in the bustling centre, giving the town a slightly unfocused energy. Sivas has a colourful, sometimes tragic history and some of the finest Seljuk buildings ever erected, but otherwise there’s not a huge amount left to engage tourists for more than a day. It’s best seen as an enjoyable but non-essential stopover on the way to the real wild east.
Sivas also makes the best base for visiting the marvellous World Heritage mosque-medrese complex at Divriği.