Soğanlı

Top choice in Cappadocia

Let's get one thing straight: despite its science-fiction setting, no scene in Star Wars was ever filmed near Soğanlı. But don't despair Chewbacca fans; there's still ample reason to travel to this tiny village 36km south of Mustafapaşa. That reason is a reverential series of rock-cut churches hidden amid Soğanlı's two dramatic, secluded valleys: the Aşağı (Lower) Soğanlı and Yukarı (Upper) Soğanlı. An afternoon exploring at the foot of these sheer faces may inspire you to write your own script.

To reach Soğanlı, turn off the main road from Mustafapaşa to Yeşilhisar and proceed 4km to the village. The ticket office for the site is next to Hidden Apple Garden restaurant. At stalls in the site car park, local women sell the dolls for which Soğanlı is supposedly famous.

Last tickets are 4.30pm October to mid-April.

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Nestling in the Yukarı Valley hillside, very near the Kubbeli Kilise, is the Saklı Kilise (Hidden Church), which, as its name suggests, is indeed…

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