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Basse Santa Su/The Gambia

Introducing Basse Santa Su

Basse Santa Su, commonly called Basse, is The Gambia’s most easterly town of any size. Though haunted by neglect, Basse Santa Su is the liveliest upcountry settlement. Trust Bank and Standard Chartered Bank have branches in Basse, and there’s an internet café.

The Basse Guesthouse (5668283; r US$5.30), above a tailor shop, has dingy rooms with shared toilets. The only plus: the 1st-floor balcony with view across the market.

Though slightly run-down since the death of its former manager (his teenage son has now taken over), the Jem Hotel (5668356; s/d US$10/20) is one of the cleaner Basse options. The restaurant gets good reviews.

The best place to stay and eat is Fulladu Camp (5668743; r per person US$11), on the north bank of the Gambia River, which has accommodation in comfortable bungalows.

The cultural centre Traditions (5668533; sulaymanjallowtraditions@yahoo.com;9am-6pm) exhibits locally made cloth and crafts, has a river-view café and can also dust of a couple of rooms for unexpected visitors (US$9).