Byeonsanbando National Park

Introducing Byeonsanbando National Park

This coastal park (582 7808; adult/youth/child W3200/1300/700; sunrise-sunset) contains Naesosa, where the buildings look old, with lots of unpainted wood. Take a close look at the main hall, especially the lattice doors, the painting behind the Buddha statues, and the intricately carved and painted ceiling with musical instruments, flowers and dragons among the motifs.

Hike up the unpaved road to Cheongneonam (20 minutes) for sea views; another 15 minutes brings you to the ridge where you turn left for Gwaneumbong. From the peak follow the path, which goes up and down and over rocks for an hour until you reach Jikso Pokpo, a 30m-high waterfall with a large pool. Another pretty spot is Seonyeotang (Angel Pool). From there walk along the unpaved access road past the ruins of Silsangsa, destroyed during the Korean War. You may need to hitch a lift as buses are infrequent. For a more challenging hike head up Nakjodae, which is famous for its sunset views.

Beaches along the coast attract crowds in summer.

Gyeokpo beach has dramatic stratified cliffs and caves as well as seafood restaurants. The beach is safe for swimming but the sea disappears at low tide. Gyeokpo is also the starting point for ferries to Wido, a small island where every house in the little fishing village of Jinli is a minbak-cum-restaurant. The large sandy beach is a cool place to hang in summer, almost like being on a beach in Thailand.

Only one direct bus (W6000; two hours) runs from Jeonju to Naesosa. Otherwise take a bus from Jeonju to Buan (W3700, one hour, five daily) and then a local bus to Naesosa (W2000, one hour, every 30 minutes). Buses (W6400, two hours, hourly) also run from Jeonju to Gyeokpo.

Ferries (581 0023) go from Gyeokpo to Wido (W6500 one way, 40 minutes, three daily September to June, six daily July and August).

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009