Strung between the mountains and the sea, Sierra Leone's capital is a cheeky, quicksilver capital bubbling with energy, colour and charm. One minute it's calm, offering up quiet beaches, friendly Krio chat and warm plates of soup and rice. The next it's frenzied and playing dirty, throwing you into the back of a shared taxi and hurtling you up and down its pretty little hills.
And it might just be the only capital in the world where when you emerge from the airport, blinking after an overnight flight, you find yourself standing on the wooden deck of a port flanked by a backdrop of mountains, beaches and palm trees so idyllic you wonder if it's real. Well it's all real, all of it - the chatter and the chaos and the colour and the dirt and the lush lobster dinners and the devastating war history – and those lovely white sands too.
Freetown destination guides
Freetown to Dakar
Discover rarely-visited gems on this West Africa overland trip from Freetown to Dakar. Very much off-the-beaten-track, this is a fairly physically demanding tour that involves a lot of camping, hiking and trekking – though the bulk of it is undertaken in a comfortable overland truck.
Freetown to Accra
Encounter mountains, beaches and mud roads on this epic West African adventure. Begin the adventure in historic Freetown then get off the beaten track in Sierra Leone, fall in love with cheeky primates and be surrounded by dense rainforest at Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary.