West Coast

Introducing West Coast

The west coast is exquisite on the eyes. There are one or two sights to aim for, but it’s the beaches and coastal scenery that are the star attractions. Wilder than the east, this is the part of Mahé where green hills tumble past coconut-strewn jungles before sliding gently into translucent waters.

The coastal drive between Anse Takamaka to the southwest up to Port Launay to the northwest provides tantalising glimpses of a number of beautiful spots. Throw away the guidebook for a day and go looking for your own slice of paradise.

The west coast is easily accessed from the east coast via several scenic roads that cut through the mountainous interior. Starting from Anse Forbans to the southeast, the road wiggles up through the mountain before reaching Quatre Bornes, from where a road leads to Police Bay, a splendid spot at the southern tip of the island. Sadly, the currents are too dangerous for swimming, but the beaches are great places to watch the surf (bring a picnic). Another road leads to the Banyan Tree hotel and the high-profile beach at Anse Intendance (from the police station at Quatre Bornes, take the 1.7km concrete road that leads down to the beach).

Coming up the west coast, Anse Takamaka, Anse Gaulettes and Anse à la Mouche all vie for the ‘best beach’ accolade, though most people plump for the idyllic little beach of Anse Soleil, a pocket-sized paradise where you can pause for lunch. It’s accessible via a secondary road (it’s signposted). Beach-hounds will make a beeline for Petite Anse, another top spot accessible after a 20-minute walk. As the sun-low sky deepens to orange, this beach just might be heaven (though a new five-star hotel, the Four Seasons, the construction of which should be completed by 2009, will probably mar the experience).

To the north of Anse à la Mouche the coast is a bit less glam but appealing nonetheless. If you can find access to Anse Louis (where the super-swish Maia resort lies), you’ll be rewarded with a superlative beach you never knew existed. You’ll then go past Grande Anse before reaching Port Glaud, a laid-back town which lazily spreads itself along the coast. Further north you’ll find Port Launay and Port Launay Marine National Park, Mahé’s forgotten corner (which is reason enough to go there), where the road comes to an end. Mangrove swamps. Seclusion. Birdsong. Deserted beaches. You’ve reached the end of the earth. It’s all yours.

Tea-lovers will pause at the working tea factory (378221; admission with/without guided tour Rs 20/10; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) on the Sans Souci road about 3km above Port Glaud. It’s best to visit before noon, when you can see the whole process from drying to packing. The estate produces about 45 tonnes of organic tea per year for export.

There are excellent dive sites off the southwestern coast. Diving can be arranged through the reputable Dive Resort Seychelles (361813, 717272; www.seychelles.net/divereso), based at the Plantation Club Hotel.

We also recommend taking a one-hour horse-riding excursion with Utetangar Riding Centre (712355; Grande Anse; 1hr ride €40). There’s nothing quite like galloping on Grande Anse beach with the wind in your hair. You’ll also traverse some rainforest. Book one day in advance.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009