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Introducing East Mainland, Burray & South Ronaldsay
When a German U-boat scuppered the battleship HMS Royal Oak right under the Allied noses in Scapa Flow in 1939, Sir Winston Churchill decided it was time to better protect this naval base. Using concrete blocks and discarded ships, the channels between Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray, South Ronaldsay and Mainland were blocked. To honour Winnie, they were named the Churchill Barriers, and today they link the islands; you'll drive over them as you head north from the ferry. If you fancy a paddle, there are good sandy beaches by Barrier 3 and 4.
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As you head across the island of Lamb Holm you'll catch the bright colours of the Italian Chapel (01856-781268; admission free; 9am-10pm Apr-Sep, 9am-4.30pm Oct-Mar), the only evidence that remains of the people who built the barriers, Italian prisoners of war (POWs). Using scraps and two Nissen huts, they built this colourful emblem to their faith during extremely difficult times.
On the far eastern shore a mile north of Skaill (at the end of the Deerness Rd) is the Gloup, a spectacular natural arch and sea cave, which is popular with nesting sea birds, especially playful puffins. On a farm at Tankerness is the mysterious Mine Howe (861234; adult/child £2.50/1.50; 10am-3pm Wed, Fri & Sun May, 10am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm daily early Sep, 10am-2pm Wed, Fri & Sun late Sep), an Iron Age site made famous by an excavation in the Time Team TV series, which concluded only that this site may have been an oracle or shrine.
Run by local farmers, the Tomb of the Eagles (01856-831339; Liddle Farm, Isbister; adult/child £5/3; 10am-noon Mar, 9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, by arrangement Nov-Feb) at the southern tip of South Ronaldsay is worth visiting. The 5000-year-old burial chamber was discovered by the same local farmers who now offer well-informed guided tours. A number of sea eagle claws and bones were found within the tomb, possibly indicating that the group revered the bird as a totem; other tombs on the island have revealed remains of different animals. Other theories speculate that sky burials were performed here.
The main village on South Ronaldsay is St Margaret's Hope, named after Margaret, the Maid of Norway, who was to have married Edward II of England but is thought to have died here in 1290 en route to the wedding. The town is an attractive stone-built port that serves as the terminus for the cheaper of the two Mainland car ferries.
Last updated: Apr 17, 2009
