Since its main square was semi-pedestrianised back in 2010, Turda is more inviting. With its lustrously coloured Hapsburg facades and two ace cards – the epic Turda Gorge and eerily awesome Salt Mine – you may find yourself happily staying overnight here. Alternatively, visit from Cluj, a mere 27km away.
Southwest of Cluj-Napoca, the popular Apuseni are dotted with caves and forested trails, with a world of subterranean rivers and a 3500-year-old underground glacier. Travellers head for the central Padiş Plateau – reached from the north or south – to camp or bunk at a cabana and make a week’s worth of day trips from there.