North off Piazza Monte Grappa, the delightful pedestrianised Corso Matteotti signals the western boundary of Varese's tiny old centre, at whose heart rises the baroque Basilica di San Vittore. The interior is a lavish affair, while the exterior is watched over by the muscular, freestanding Torre Campanaria (Bell Tower) which dates from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The surrounding tangle of lanes makes for a pleasant meander, dotted with several eateries and cafes.