Gran Vilaya

Northern Highlands


The name Gran Vilaya refers to the bountiful valleys that spread out west of Chachapoyas, reaching toward the rushing Río Marañón. Abutting the humid Amazon, this region sits in a unique microcosm of perennially moist high-altitude tropics and cloud forests – an ecological anomaly that gave rise to the moniker of the Chachapoyas culture, 'People of the Clouds.'

The fertility of this lush area was never a big secret – the valleys successfully supported the huge populations of the Chachapoyas and Inca cultures, and to date more than 30 archaeological sites have been found dotting the mountains. Important sites such as Paxamarca, Pueblo Alto, Pueblo Nuevo and Pirquilla lie connected by winding goat-tracks as they did hundreds of years ago, completely unexcavated, and can be visited on multiday hikes. Immaculately constructed Inca roads weave up and around the hills, past many ruined cities camouflaged by centuries of jungle.

The impossibly green and silt-filled Valle de Belén lies at the entrance of Gran Vilaya. The flat valley floor here is dissected by the mouth of the widely meandering Río Huaylla, coiled like a languid serpent. Filled with grazing cattle and horses, and surrounded on all sides by mist-covered hills, the vistas here are mesmerizing.

Most travel agencies in Chachapoyas offer multiday trekking tours of this region with the classic four-day circuit (S720 per person) beginning at Cohechán and ending at Kueláp via Choctámal. Hikers should be in good physical condition as the trek requires some serious ascents at altitude.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Northern Highlands attractions

1. Karajía

8.31 MILES

This extraordinary funerary site hosts six sarcophagi perched high up a sheer cliff face. Each long-faced tomb is constructed from wood, clay and straw…

2. Caverna de Quiocta

10.06 MILES

This large cave is 545m long and guards a spooky selection of stalagmites, stalactites and other trippy rock formations. Also visible around the entrance…

3. Yalape

10.91 MILES

This largely unexcavated archaeological site dates from around AD 1100 and is located 17km south of Chachapoyas near the village of Levanto. A visit here…

4. Mirador Luya Urco

12.43 MILES

A 10-minute stroll northwest along Salamanca brings you to this modest lookout with a city panorama.

5. Church

12.72 MILES

This whitewashed church, officially known as the Catedral San Juan Bautista, sits on the Plaza de Armas. Its heavy black wooden doors rarely seem to open…

6. Instituto Nacional de Cultura Museo

12.77 MILES

This small museum on the Plaza de Armas houses mummies found throughout the region, plus ceramics from several pre-Columbian periods and one of the…

7. Kuélap

13.25 MILES

Travelers have their heads literally in the clouds when visiting the walled jungle fortress Kuélap in the northern highlands of Peru – the gateway to the…

8. Huancas

14.62 MILES

The tiny and agreeably unkempt village of Huancas (pronounced like the English ‘wankers’!) has a small artisan community making clay pots the old…