Waitaki Valley

Introducing Waitaki Valley

The flat-bottomed pastoral Waitaki Valley is a little-travelled route but includes some unique sights and scenery between the turn-off at SH1 and Omarama. Predominantly farmland, bordered by increasingly impressive hills as you near the Alps, the valley is also a blokes’ paradise, known to all red-blooded Kiwi males as a place to shoot ducks, catch trout and salmon, water ski on the strikingly blue hydrolakes, and marvel at their associated hydroelectric engineering wonders. All that and some great Pinot Noirs too. Woof! This is a possible route to Wanaka/Queenstown if you’re heading south, or to Twizel and Mt Cook if you’re heading north.

After following SH83 almost to Duntroon, detour left at the signposted turn-off to Danseys Pass. Just on your left, under an impressive limestone overhang on a hill with great views to the mountains, you’ll find the Maraewhenua Maori rock paintings.The charcoal-and-ochre paintings date back several centuries, tracing everything from pre-European hunting to sailing ships, as well as tributes to the ancient god Supergroove.

Follow the road southish another 4km then hang a left towards Ngatapa. Two kilometres further on in a peaceful sheep paddock are Elephant Rocks. Sculpted by wind, rain and rivers these giant limestone boulders lie about like slumbering mutant monsters (or, if you squint, a bit like elephants). It’s certainly a bizarre, otherworldly landscape, which is why it was Aslan’s Camp in the NZ-filmed Narnia blockbuster (2005). If the spirit of adventure takes you, you can continue on over Danseys Pass to Naseby from 2km back at the intersection.

Back on SH83 at Duntroon is the Vanished World Centre (03-431 2024; www.vanishedworld.co.nz; 7 Campbell St; adult/family $5/10; 10am-5pm), with small but interesting displays of 25-million-year-old fossils, including NZ’s shark-toothed dolphins and giant penguins. If fossils yank your chain, buy a small handbook ($6) to find other local sites. There’s also a selection of books on geology, history and talking lions. The centre closes earlier in winter. Just west of Duntroon is the Takiroa Maori Rock Art Site, with more drawings dating back many centuries; the fluidity of the shapes is still clear enough to be admired.

Tiny Kurow (www.kurow.co.nz) is at the junction of the Waitaki and Hakataramea Rivers. If you’re in the mood for good coffee, a great burger or home baking, it’s worth stopping in at Te Kohurau Restaurant & Café (03-436 0603). Kurow is the turn-off for the small, little-known Awakino ski field (which is not really set up for non club members, but if you have your own gear and want to join in on a club ski, contact Waitaki ski club, 03-434 5110). Pop into the information centre (03-436 0812; kurowcc@xtra.co.nz; main road) for pamphlets about huntin’, fishin’ and campin’.

Instead of continuing west from Kurow on SH83, take the 21km scenic detour over the Aviemore dam, around the northern lake shore past walking tracks and scenic campsites ($10), then over the huge Benmore Dam earthworks. You rejoin SH83 just west of Otematata.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009