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Introducing Laguna Bacalar
A large, clear, turquoise freshwater lake with a bottom of gleaming white sand, Laguna Bacalar comes as a surprise in this region of tortured limestone and scrubby jungle.
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The small, sleepy town of Bacalar, just east of the highway, 125km south of Felipe Carrillo Puerto, is the only settlement of any size on the lake. It’s noted mostly for its old Spanish fortress and its popular balnearios (bathing places). Hurricane Dean scrubbed the town clean, felling a number of trees, but things were recovering nicely on our last pass.
The fortress, Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar (admission M$20; 9am-8pm Tue-Sun), was built above the lagoon to protect citizens from raids by pirates and Indians. It served as an important outpost for the whites in the War of the Castes. In 1859 it was seized by Maya rebels, who held the fort until Quintana Roo was finally conquered by Mexican troops in 1901. Today, with formidable cannons still on its ramparts, the fortress remains an imposing sight. It houses a museum exhibiting colonial armaments and uniforms from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Just shy of the south end of the costera is Cenote Azul, a 90m-deep natural pool on the southwest shore of the lake. It’s 200m east of Hwy 307, so many buses will drop you nearby. Of the few places to eat right in town, Orizaba’s at the northwest corner of the plaza is a good choice.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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