Aksu-Dzhabagly Nature Reserve

Introducing Aksu-Dzhabagly Nature Reserve

This beautiful 1319-sq-km patch of valleys and mountains climbing to the Kyrgyz and Uzbek borders east of Shymkent is the longest established (1926) and one of the easiest visited of Kazakhstan’s nature reserves. The reserve, at the west end of the Talassky Alatau range (the most northwesterly spur of the Tian Shan), stretches from the edge of the steppe at about 1200m up to 4239m at Pik Sayram. The main access point is the village of Zhabaghly, 70km east of Shymkent as the crow flies and the base of one of Kazakhstan’s longest-running and best-organised ecotourism programmes.

Aksu-Dzhabagly is promoted as the home of the tulip, and in April and May its alpine meadows are dotted with the wild bright-red Greig’s tulip. Wildlife you stand a chance of spotting includes bears, ibex, argali sheep, paradise flycatchers and golden eagles. The scenery, a mix of green valleys with rushing rivers, snow-capped peaks and high-level glaciers, is gorgeous. You can visit any time of year, but the best months to come are April to September.

From Zhabaghly village it’s 6km southeast to the reserve entrance, then 6km (about 1½ hours’ walk) to Kshi-Kaindy, a mountain refuge near a waterfall at 1700m, then a further 6km to Ulken-Kaindy, a second refuge. From Ulken-Kaindy it’s 10km to a group of some 2000 stones with petroglyphs up to 900 years old, below a glacier descending from the 3800m peak Kaskabulak. A good way to visit these sites is by horse, spending two nights at Ulken-Kaindy. More demanding treks will take you over 3500m passes with nights in caves. Another great spot is the 300m-deep Aksu Canyon at the reserve’s western extremity, a 25km drive from Zhabaghly village. In September and early October the canyon is a busy raptor migration route.

The community ecotourism and homestay programme here is run by the NGO Wild Nature (Dikaya Priroda; /fax 325-385 56 86, 701-4387086; baskakova2008@mail.ru; Taldybulak 14, Zhabaghly). Director Svetlana Baskakova, a knowledgeable biologist and great guide, speaks excellent English. Wild Nature charges per day include: guide, 3750T; horse, 1500T; camping in the reserve including meals, 4200T to 5000T per person; vehicle to Aksu Gorge, 6000T return. Obligatory fees for entering the reserve are 1050T per person per day, plus 1300T per group per day for an accompanying ranger. Zhenia & Lyuda’s also offers well-run excursions in the reserve with English-speaking guides, and both outfits offer interesting trips outside the reserve, including to the Chokpak bird-ringing station, 20km north, and to the little-visited Karatau mountains further north.

Shymkent-based travel firm, Altex maintains a camp of surprisingly comfortable metal-box cabins in a pretty location in a canyon beside the Sayram River on the west side of the reserve. A three-day/two-night trip runs about US$150 to US$200, including food, guide and transfers from Shymkent. From the camp it’s possible to take a long day hike to two small lakes at 2000m, or tackle the more demanding Pik Sayram, a two-day climb requiring equipment.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009