Introducing Shiretoko National Park
Shiretoko-Hantō, the peninsula that makes up Shiretoko National Park was known in Ainu as ‘the end of the world’, and it’s aptly named. As remote as Japan gets, this magnificent park has no sealed roads within its boundaries save for a short northwest–southeast road that connects the town of Utoro (on the northwestern edge) with Rausu (on the southern side); two-thirds of the park has no roads at all. The hiking tracks to Shiretoko-misaki () are for expert hikers only: remote and poorly maintained, they wind over slippery boulders and disappear at times on cliff sides. If the weather turns frigid or you slip and break an ankle, you’ll need to hope that a passing fishing boat spots you before the bears do. Hiking must be arranged in advance: there are steep fines for anyone caught hiking off limits or after hours.
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Boat rides (24-2147; trips ¥6000) can be an option for those who want to see Cape Shiretoko but can’t make the hike. It’s expensive, but the 3¾-hour trip may be your only way to see the spectacular cliffs that Shiretoko is famous for. Otherwise, postcards will have to suffice.
The Shiretoko Nature Centre (24-2114; info@shiretoko.or.jp; slide show ¥500; 8am-5.40pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-4pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr) has maps, info and a 20-minute slide show about the peninsula. So few people get here that humans haven’t ruined it yet: hikers will see pristine forests, remote vistas without a sign of habitation and lots of wildlife, including bears and foxes. The latter can be dangerous too, so don’t take any chances: some have been known to steal food or sleeping bags. In addition, fox faeces have contaminated the water with the parasite echinococcus, which can be deadly. Don’t drink any water that hasn’t been properly purified.
Unfortunately, Iwaobetsu Onsen () and Kamuiwakka-no-taki (), a stunning rotemburo waterfall, are closed for five years for maintenance and restoration, but Shiretoko-go-ko (; Shiretoko Five Lakes) offers hiking with beautiful views of the ponds and mountains behind them.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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