Sadly, the capital of the province has little to excite the senses. That said, there are a handful of museums and churches and an attractive historic centre. This is the birthplace of Sardinia’s most celebrated writer, Grazia Deledda, although she would surely turn in her grave if she could see the graffiti that blights the town today.
By the end of the 18th century Nuoro barely numbered 3000 inhabitants but was the only real ‘urban’ centre in a world of subsistence farming and banditry. The town took off after being made provincial capital in 1927.